7.3 Conversion ?!
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From: Utah County, UT
No smoke comming from oil fill cap . . but plenty of smoke at idle at the tail pipe. Seems to clear up a little when the motor gets warmed up. . . im def. thinking blowby.
Not sure if the guy before me changed the injectors . . but I havent so probably have been in there all that time. Should I just get new ones when swaping my stuff over to the 1997 engine ?
Not sure if the guy before me changed the injectors . . but I havent so probably have been in there all that time. Should I just get new ones when swaping my stuff over to the 1997 engine ?
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I'm serious.
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From: Milroy, PA
Im with Mike and Jet on this, tis why I asked to begin with. Id go with a set of new injectors, and possibly replace any bad injector cups at the same time. Really sounds like your injectors. Even if they were replaced once around 200k, its looking to need done again. Its definetely an easier, and less time consuming job, then swapping a motor, or converting an obs motor to a super duty motor. Atleast in my humble oppinion.
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Well . . . right now I have just purchased a set of glow plugs from ebay and I guess I can look for some injectors next. . . . . I have the motor almost ready to come out. . but I guess I could plug it back in, swap those items out, and give it a try with the new stuff.
I would have had the motor out already if I had an engine lift that could reach that far. . .looks like im short about 4 more inches on this lift.
I would have had the motor out already if I had an engine lift that could reach that far. . .looks like im short about 4 more inches on this lift.
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So would a compression test help with anything ? . .. or would leaking injectors leak out pressure just like warn out rings ?
If I did run a compression test . . . what kind of compression numbers should I have cranking and/or running at idle. ?
Or could I just fill the cylinder up with air pressure and listen to see if air bubbles come out by the injectors ?
If I did run a compression test . . . what kind of compression numbers should I have cranking and/or running at idle. ?
Or could I just fill the cylinder up with air pressure and listen to see if air bubbles come out by the injectors ?
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Do I need a special leak down tool . . or are the glow plug threads similar at all to spark plug threads ? . . . . . ( ok , so Im a gas man . . this is my first diesel engine . . gime a break will ya ! )
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From: Milroy, PA
I havent done glow plugs yet, so im unsure of that, however, a compression test would be affected by injector issues. Im not sure on the numbers you should be seeing though. Hopefully someone will come along that does know them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: 21791
I have a powerstroke compression tester with a 600# gauge, and the special adapter to the glow plug threads. You are supposed to do it on a warm engine, but you can do it on a cold engine, i did. The cylinders should not be more than 10% off from each other, ideal number is 400 or higher, i had a few that was 400, some were 380, and two were 360-365. Let me know if you want to use the tester.
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Put me in for another vote on the injectors. My suggestion is this, by 400K it is not out of the question for you to have leaky injector tubes/injector o-rings. DIY Injector.com has good options if you are pretty handy with smaller tools and close tolerances. I did it to mine and it worked well. You may need to enlist help with the injector tubes, but between these two items you can save yourself a LOT of headaches. Even at 400k, the longblock should still have a lot of wear left to go before it needs a rebuild if it was properly maintained.
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From: 21791
You don't need it to hook up to an air hose. Unplug the electrical connection to the engine above the left valve cover, put this tester where a glow plug should be, crank for 5-10 seconds, get out, read the gauge. Its supposed to build the pressure on it's own.
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With all these posts. . I have been doing some research . . and since I almost have the motor out, Im going to go ahead a swap them.
Now. . . I like the idea of using stage 1 injectors for 650 bucks ! ! . . . . .
But this PULSE HPOP ? Whats the deal with it ? OK , I know . . more oil pressure. . . but do people have any problems with the stock 2001 HPOP ? ? I mean this truck went 400,000 miles on a stock pump and I can replace it with
Blue Ridge Diesel: Delphi Powerstroke Products for 366 bucks + core ?
Why pay 1400 dollars plus a core for a few psi more pressure. . .sure it may add more pressure for better performance, but it also takes more power from the accessories to make more pressure ?!? mY 100,000 mILE lONG bLOCK oNLY coSTS 1400 bUCKS !
Now. . . I like the idea of using stage 1 injectors for 650 bucks ! ! . . . . .
But this PULSE HPOP ? Whats the deal with it ? OK , I know . . more oil pressure. . . but do people have any problems with the stock 2001 HPOP ? ? I mean this truck went 400,000 miles on a stock pump and I can replace it with
Blue Ridge Diesel: Delphi Powerstroke Products for 366 bucks + core ?
Why pay 1400 dollars plus a core for a few psi more pressure. . .sure it may add more pressure for better performance, but it also takes more power from the accessories to make more pressure ?!? mY 100,000 mILE lONG bLOCK oNLY coSTS 1400 bUCKS !
Post Fiend
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From: 21791
It doesnt take that much parasitic loss off the engine, to make that extra pressure. You may be fine. If you have someone, mechanic buddy with live scanner tool like Autoenginuity on a laptop, get him to read Injector Control pressure on a hard run from 60-100+mph, to really load the pump down. It's best to keep over 2500psi of oil pressure. Some people gained 500-600psi of pressure when going to single shots, just because the fact they use a tad bit less oil volume which kept up the pressure.
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