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Clutch question for Kwik

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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 09:59 PM
  #1  
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Clutch question for Kwik

Kwik, I'm getting ready to change my clutch. Got any links for write-ups on the ins and outs of this. Have changed a few clutches but mostly on older vehicles.
How difficult is it to leave the transfer case and trany attached for removal? Looking around under there it doesn't appear to bad if I can get a trany jack.
Any other tips or suggestions are appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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Bump for ya.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 02:34 PM
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I pulled it out as one piece. The drivelines are easy to remove and move them out of the way.
It's best to lift the boot inside the truck and remove the shift selector from the tranny and stuff a rag down the hole. You can remove the handle from the selector via the two bolts attaching it to the selector but it still sticks up like a thumb and gets in the way. Six bolts and it's out, much easier to get the job done then.
Similar fashion for the 4x4 lever underneath the truck, two bolts and the handle is detached.
Turn the slave cylinder 1/8 turn CCW and it comes out.
Leave the transfer case bolted on, but remove the drivelines.
I think there are about six bell housing bolts.
The starter bolts.
There are some electrical plugs for backup lights, etc that need to be unplugged.
Disconnect the cooler lines.
Put the jack under the tranny, use some ratcheting straps to secure it to the jack. That tranny weights a LOT and if it get's out of control, it will hurt you to stop it.
Remove the crossmember.
Remove the tranny.

 
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 04:10 PM
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Thanks Kwik. What are the chances I can get away with turning the flywheel. Heard rumors I would then need to shim it or better to just replace it.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 04:19 PM
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Not real keen on turning and no shim.
I bought the complete kit with flywheel for mine. Old flywheel would have been fine without turning but it was incompatable with the LUK clutch.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 06:14 PM
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I did a '94 f150 4.9l straight 6 slave cylinder and a clutch replacement. Slave was leaking and while i was there swapped out everything else. When i went to purchase the slave cylinder the guy at the counter mentioned to me to stop at the hardware store and purchase 7/16 by 6" long bolts. And cut the heads off to use the bolts as alignment studs. Due to the bell housing pins being so short. Place the two bolts apposing each other. It made it so easy to align everything back up. Raised up tranny onto studs and slid her forward while turning the yoke. Not sure if this is old news or applicable to PSD(thread size and all). Just thought i would through that out there.

Dan
 
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by danskool
I did a '94 f150 4.9l straight 6 slave cylinder and a clutch replacement. Slave was leaking and while i was there swapped out everything else. When i went to purchase the slave cylinder the guy at the counter mentioned to me to stop at the hardware store and purchase 7/16 by 6" long bolts. And cut the heads off to use the bolts as alignment studs. Due to the bell housing pins being so short. Place the two bolts apposing each other. It made it so easy to align everything back up. Raised up tranny onto studs and slid her forward while turning the yoke. Not sure if this is old news or applicable to PSD(thread size and all). Just thought i would through that out there.

Dan
Good idea!!!
 
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