Anyone got a link to how to do the kwik mod? I want to run WVO and also get the benefits of this mod. Thanks for the help!

 

I may have asked (rather been told) the wrong mod. I want to run new fuel lines from the filter bowl to the heads, with a return line or something to that effect.

 

I believe FTE sponsor FN74 may have both the information and a kit that will help you.

He is into WVO stuff, too.

Pop

 

Here's the thread that I started two years ago about it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...el-supply.html

 

I'm currently testing out FN74's system right now. Installed it last Saturday. Lots of data gathered, compiling the report now. Funny thing is that since I gathered my "after" data on Sunday, teh truck seems to be doing even better now. I'm not sure if it's the increase in ambient temps and flushing of winter fuel and switching back to DK in the gray bottle, or if the "cackle-cure" kit is now really "settled in" and performing the way it is supposed to. I'm going to take another set of "after" data this afternoon on my nearly two-hour trip back to the house and check out my impressions.

OBSERVATIONS:
Definite noise reductions in the engine. Not enough data to verify any real mileage improvements, but I see some hints at it. Again, the summer fuel and switch back to the DK gray bottle could be the source of what little I've seen regarding mileage improvements.

Regarding acceleration runs, I've shaved 1-2 seconds off my acceleration times in the 40-70, 50-70, and 70-90 runs. My overall 0-70 time hasn't changed much, though. Hard to say for sure because of the hilliness of where I live. Still checking that out.

I'll be finishing my report on this this week and running it by Jason (FN74) before posting it on FTE.

 

This is what I did. If you are a DIY guy, it's fairly straight forward. Where I have the "bleed/burp valve, most just go back into the stock return via an orifice. You can save some money doing it yourself but the kits are really nice and no piecing anything together. Oh, aft of the bleed valve is simply a hose that I run into an old DK bottle when I occasionally crack it open. Then I just dump it back into the tank. A gauge could/should be hooked up there, I just haven't done it yet as I have no problems with fuel.

 

Newbie,

How'd you drop the newbie and keep the post count?

Pop

 

Who said it can't be done? I'll let him field that one.

 

Waaaaay back when I had about eight posts, I tried to change my "handle". I was told "no way".

That was after following Ken and Peggy here to the WWW after being a member of the old Ford mail-lists for years, almost since the beginning. Long before there was an FTE, long before Motorhaven.

Longevity didn't seem to count back when...

Gee, things sure change with time, don't they? ;-))

Pop

 

It's a secret....

 

Shhhhh......

Really, though, I simply broached the subject with the Admin folks in the manner of suggesting something I thought could be a win-win for everyone... not asking for mine to change, just suggesting an approach that might be good for both FTE and stupid folks like me who got caught not thinking far enough ahead to realize how we'd be trapped with our first choice forever. I guess they ended up feeling sorry for me and made the change without dropping either my few rep points or post counts.

The FTE Admin folks are SUPER!! and kind!! I just hope it doesn't draw much attention and have them end up fielding a host of requests for the same thing jsut because they were kind to me.

 

Post deleted.

 

So F250, how about the install? How long did it take, how difficult was it? Give some details man.......

 

It took me about 45 mins, if memory serves. All you have to do is remove the bottom part of the stock air box (two bolts in the bottom and two next to the battery), clean the end of the stock air tube (I also cut the little alignment tab off), shoe-horn it over the neck of the 6637, and clamp it down. This is where some folks vary a bit. I just trimmed some of the alignment tab off and re-used the stock clamp. Others trim off the entire tab(s) and use a standard large hose clamp (or two shorter ones connected together). Also, some use a rasp and rough up the next of the 6637 for a better bite, but I just kept tightening down the clamp every few days and now it's staying tight.

Still others use a 4" OD adapter pipe usually exhaust or PVC of some kind. Be careful with the PVC since it's measured in ID. 4" ID PVC is larger than will fit into the filter. I think it's some kind of adapter (for 3" maybe?).

Some use the Filter Minder sensor, some don't. Some just tie wrap the IAT to the nearest bracket, some install it in the filter. I tie wrapped both of these to the nearest convenient point. I also wrapped the filter minder sensor plug with electrical tape to keep the contacts clean. I chunked the actual sensor in the box with the stock airbox.

Many ways to skin this cat, so go with the way that you like...

Here's what mine looks like (this was taken before I removed the I/C tube insulation):


Joe

 

Sorry for the distraction guys, but to answer rad's question...

I hate to admit it, but it took me a about 5 hrs. It wasn't hard... just tedious. For someone who's more proficient with the 7.3L engine, it could be as little as 2-3 hrs, I expect. I had my 14 and 18 years old sons working with me, and we spent a good bit of time talking about the mod and the engine. Also had to take a 1 1/2 hour break to go locate the fuel line compression grommet that I lost before putting the kit in, and another 30 minute break later to super-glue some steristrips on the gash on my left thumb from the back side of that wickedly serrated edge on the fan blade.

I hope to post my report by Friday. I went ahead and wrote up a "baby step" - by - "baby step" set of instructions, complete with digital photos throughout the entire process (that alone probably added 30-45 minutes to the whole job).

More to follow later.