What's this for?
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 2
From: Portland, Oregon
What's this for?
So i bought an underglow kit for my van (yes i know rice rice baby) and was working on installing it (not fun w/o access to ramps or a lift) when i noticed that the canister in the pic below had a hose that was rubbing on the steering rack, to the point where it's worn through the outer hose. not sure what it's for, but i know it goes into the pass. side of the radiator...
on a side note i saw with my own two eyes that there's a second tranny cooler (other than the one mounted in the radiator) mounted on my car.... so that saves me 50 bux.
OH just curiuos, if my AC compressor makes a terrible clicking noise (but does work) should i just ignore it or plan to replace it in the future?
here's the pic:
on a side note i saw with my own two eyes that there's a second tranny cooler (other than the one mounted in the radiator) mounted on my car.... so that saves me 50 bux.
OH just curiuos, if my AC compressor makes a terrible clicking noise (but does work) should i just ignore it or plan to replace it in the future?
here's the pic:
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
If it is low on 134A then the Comp. cycles off and on at let me guess a rate of between every 3 to 10 seconds.
answer--have it served-1 to 2 cans of 134A should do the trick.
Metal raspy noise/metal grinding?
A different monster. Bearing/clutch or pulley bearing is going bad.
answer--more of a serious problem"OH"-if the bearings in these pulleys go bad and I mean "RIGHT NOW!"-It will throw your serpentine belt and then Triple A will have to be called
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 2
From: Portland, Oregon
you mean r12? lol it's still the old school system. but yes it's a clicking noise. i can make a video of it if you guys would like.
oh and for future reference to any one who cares... don't attach a neon light to a stableizing bar. the flexing of the bar will crack the light. :-(
oh and for future reference to any one who cares... don't attach a neon light to a stableizing bar. the flexing of the bar will crack the light. :-(
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 35
From: Kansas
It's different from all the Aeros that I've owned, but I believe it's what a dealership's parts man would call a manifold. That line is a high pressure line that's between your air conditioner's condenser and evaporator. It acts as a noise reducing muffler and kind of a freon buffer at the same time.
My Aeros have had them by the compressor.
Or, wait a minute........if you've got a 3.0 engine, it probably IS right by the compressor. In that case, it is the high pressure hose between the compressor and condenser.
If there's a hole rubbed in that hose, your freon has leaked out.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 1
From: Mitchell, SD
That is your orafice tube on your A/C system. Once it get's a hole, no more freon.
I would see if you could re-adjust it so it does not rub and hope it lasts a little bit longer, but plan on replacing it if you plan on keeping a/c.
As for R12 vs R134, I would call up a couple shops and ask them if they would pull the R12 out of your system for free. If they won't go somewhere else.
Once all the R12 has been removed, get yourself a R134a conversion kit and dump some R134a in there (after replacing the orafice) Make sure it has ESTER OIL in it, which will make the two systems compatible.
It is fairly simple and I have done it several times with no adverse effects.
I would see if you could re-adjust it so it does not rub and hope it lasts a little bit longer, but plan on replacing it if you plan on keeping a/c.
As for R12 vs R134, I would call up a couple shops and ask them if they would pull the R12 out of your system for free. If they won't go somewhere else.
Once all the R12 has been removed, get yourself a R134a conversion kit and dump some R134a in there (after replacing the orafice) Make sure it has ESTER OIL in it, which will make the two systems compatible.
It is fairly simple and I have done it several times with no adverse effects.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
that is not the orfice tube. The orfice tube is located much higher on the inlet to the evaporator. As mentioned, this hose is the high pressure hose that goes from the compressor to the condensor. It has a muffler in it, which serves to quiet the AC system, and to provide a more stable flow of refrigerant from the compressor to the condensor and even out pressure waves.
I would do the conversion. If the system previously had coolant in it, and the hoses aren't leaking, you should have no problems. If the hoses are leaking, don't bother trying to repair, them, get new ones ( Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto ) and make sure they are compatible with R-134a. Then just do the conversion. If you convert, plan on replacing the accumulator too.
I would do the conversion. If the system previously had coolant in it, and the hoses aren't leaking, you should have no problems. If the hoses are leaking, don't bother trying to repair, them, get new ones ( Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto ) and make sure they are compatible with R-134a. Then just do the conversion. If you convert, plan on replacing the accumulator too.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 2
From: Portland, Oregon
why should i plan on replacing the accumulator? that's the black canister thingy on the pass. side with the sticker that changes color with temp right?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Because the accumulator contains the desiccant dryer. The old R-12 desiccant is not exactly compatible with R-134a. If you get any moisture in t he system, the desiccant is designed to absorb it. The ester oil unfortunately is more hydrophilic than the R-12 desiccant, and the new oil will pull any water that might be trapped in there. If there is no water in it, you will not have any problems. If there is water, it reacts with the R-134a and forms hydrochloric acid, which will destroy your cooling system from the inside out.
If you are able to retrofit to R-134a in a way that does not involve opening the cooling system, you will not need to replace the accumulator. But to fix the leaks does require opening the system, and that can compromise the desiccant. The new accumulators contain a new desiccant that is compatible with both R-134a and R-12.
If you are able to retrofit to R-134a in a way that does not involve opening the cooling system, you will not need to replace the accumulator. But to fix the leaks does require opening the system, and that can compromise the desiccant. The new accumulators contain a new desiccant that is compatible with both R-134a and R-12.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 2
From: Portland, Oregon
it doesn't leak yet. what i'm going to do is take a bit of hose that i have left over from a heater core repair, and wrapit it around the spot that is rubbing, so it does not wear through any more.
as far as retrofitting is concerned, i was thinking i'd go to an ac shop and have them collect the r12 refridgerent (like the video's for the kit say todo) then buy the retrofit kit from autozone and go from there.
as far as retrofitting is concerned, i was thinking i'd go to an ac shop and have them collect the r12 refridgerent (like the video's for the kit say todo) then buy the retrofit kit from autozone and go from there.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 2
From: Portland, Oregon
ok i lied it has a small pin hole in it. how do i know? i was putting the sleve i made over it and had to wiggle the hose a bit, and it started hissing when i'd bend it. great. now i have to have an ac hose repaired. oh well.... good as time as ever to upgrade!
edit: rock auto has accumulators for under 30 bux (not encluding shipping) so that's a bit of releif... but it looks like the part i need (discharge and suction line: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,6900) costs between 78-200 bux before shipping... ouch.... *begins crying*
edit: rock auto has accumulators for under 30 bux (not encluding shipping) so that's a bit of releif... but it looks like the part i need (discharge and suction line: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,6900) costs between 78-200 bux before shipping... ouch.... *begins crying*
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ripsnort
General NON-Automotive Conversation
42
Oct 31, 2004 03:20 PM
RICE H8R
Audio & Video Systems, Navigation, Satellite Radio & Mobile Electronics
10
May 27, 2004 09:01 AM