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Out of the blue stupid wag, but based on watching two guys kick & push a motorcycle for an hour trying to start it: PULL the carb and see if the rag someone stuffed in there during a change is still in there.....
I will see if I can get my hands on a thermometer to check cylinder temps. Is there an easy way to check to see if the intake is blocked? It was used and may very well be restricted with something. If there is something else wrong with a cylinder, shy of compression and leakdown problems...what else could be wrong?
The thermometer I am talking about uses infrared to look at the object you are pointing it at and reads the infrared signature. The result is displayed on the readout. There is no actual physical contact with the part. For looking into the intake, the best way is to pull the manifold off, although you might have good enough luck with a mirror and a flashlight.
Pulling the valve covers and checking the lift and duration of the valves might be something too. You might have a flat cam.
Will do ASAP. I replaced the carb myself, but will pull it again to peek into the runners with my scope to make sure. I will also check for rocker arm movement to be sure they each move the same. I have not thought of a cam problem. The driver's side head was taken apart when I replaced a valve and lapped them all.
As always, you guys are providing me with great ideas!
Back in the autoshop in High School, we worked on a car that had a dead cylinder and what it ended up being was a vacuum leak to that single cylinder, causing a mixture problem (too lean) so it was not firing. A couple vacuum caps and it was running strong again. Is it possible that when you put the manifold on, one of the ports didn't seal (crushed or folded over gasket)?
I will check as close as I can for something with a gasket. I also bought a thermometer today to check cylinder temps. Another customer at the store mentioned a possible internally shorted spark plug which he ran into before. The majority of techs I talk to seem to think it may be a flat cam or faulty valve components.
As soon as the rain stops, I will check the cylinder temps to find which ones are not firing, then try swapping out new plugs, look for vacuum leaks, fuel actually getting to the cylinder, valve lash, and for rocker arm movement while the engine is running. Surely this has to be the final stretch!
Hopefully, I will find the problem. If it wasn't for you all, I would have given up a long time ago and junked it!
I pulled out the #6 plug which was black and wet. The others seem normal. When I replaced the plug with a new one, no change. The thermometer read about 100' degree difference between #5 & 6. I pulled off the driver's valve cover to look for something obvious and started it up. Nothing seemed abnormal. All rocker arms appear to be moving uniformly. Gaskets appear to be in order. Even tried the propane trick around the intake and carb.
If it won't build good compression in that cylinder, it won't create good vacuum in it either so it won't get enough air/fuel to burn and make power/heat.
I did a compression test and a shop did also. As far as the fuel pumps, I replaced the frame mounted high pressure pump with a new low pressure one for the new carb setup. The pressure gauge I have says it providing 5 psi.
Today I will pull the carb and check for blocked ports in the intake. If I don't see anything obvious, I will probably do one of three things:
1) schedule a visit with an "old-school" shop
2) find another motor to drop in
3) have this motor broken down and gone thru from the bottom up
If I get my paws an another motor, what would be the best fit "drop in" replacement for a 351w? A 460 would be great if I find one, but a proper running 351 should provide me with enough power.