my AC doesn't work. all the components seem to be intact. i removed the cap at the AC pump and pushed it, and it had some pressure. does this mean all i have to do is buy a 134a retrofit kit and it'll work?
its hot here

 

that's what i did, and i filled it up with some leak stop refrigerant. mine still has a small leak, about one bottle every summer does the trick for me!!

 

autozone here i come

 

It's not quite that simple. If you still have R12 in there you'll want to get it vacummed to remove all the old R12 as it's not compatible with the R134. That's also a good time to see if it will hold vacuum...that will show you don't have any leaks. Then install the R134 retrofit kit. Add 1 8oz can of Esther oil, then 3 12oz cans of R134 refrigerant and you should be good to go.

 

my compressor isn't coming on how do i test power to it?

 

You should notice a two wire plug on the accumulator. It connects to the low pressure switch. Disconnect the plug, and with the truck running and the A/C turned on, jump the two wires in the plug. The compressor should kick on. Do this only very briefly as you are running an underpressured system and could damage the compressor if you let it run like that.

 

THANK YOU !
jumped the low pressure switch compressor kicked right on so i'll suck out the R12 and recharge WOO HOO

 

If the current system has no leaks, I don't see why you can't refill with r12?

I do think it's a good idea to have the old stuff vacuumed out, and disposed of properly!!! Just make sure you get no moisture in the system.

 

To really do it right you need to drain most of the old mineral oil from the system (it doesn't lubricate with R134A and it takes up needed space). Replace the old Blue/White orifice tube with a Red/White one. Replace the accumulator with one which has the proper desiccant for R134A (desiccant for R12 does not absorb much moisture when used with R134A). Disconnect the plug on the low pressure cutout switch and turn the switch adjusting screw about 1/8 turn CCW (it's located between the contacts on the switch). Install a high pressure cut out switch to prevent system overpressure in hot weather (see this link: AC - HIGH-PRESSURE CUT-OUT SWITCH KIT - JCWhitney Replacement auto parts Parts ). Charge system with 85% of the weight of the original R12 charge i.e., if the original R12 charge was 48 oz. then use 40.8 oz of R134A (.85 x 48=40.8 oz. of R134A). If you don't install the high pressure switch then limit the weight of the charge to about 75% of the R12 value. That's what some shops do that don't install a high pressure switch--then tell you that you can't expect R134A to cool as well as the R12 did. For additional info click: Basic R12 to R134a Retrofitting. Be sure to use polyolester (POL, ester oil) in your system, not PAG oil.

 

ALL RIGHT !
got it goin its blowin cool, but not ice cold. can i take a accumulator and compressor out of a newer truck or explorer ? its good enough for now, but could be better
THANKS FOR THE HELP !

 

You likely don't need a compressor, I've done a number of conversions on Fords, Chevys and Mopars and never had to replace one. I wouldn't install a used accumulator. You can get a new one with R134A compatible desiccant at Advance for about $35. Take the old one with you to compare. Some later models have different fittings, etc.