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I think i might have a distributor problem. I just changed to a 4bbl carb and the truck was running fine. Went out this after noon to go for a drive and it wouldnt start. I talked to a friend, he told me to check the timing. To get it started i had to hold the pedal to the floor, and then speed the idle up to keep it running. I checked the timing by taking off the vacuum line and using my timing light. I set it a t 6*,(i had to move it quite a bit to get it to 6*) when i hooked the vacuum up it still ran poorly. I think its running real rich too as there is alot of whitish smoke. I hope i have given enough info for an analysis, any info would be much appreciated. The thing i dont understand is that the motor was recently rebuilt and ran good and idled smooth with the 2bbl on it. Maybe i have a carb problem, i dont know. You guys have helped me in the past so i look to you now.
Thanks
Mark
To go from a 2bbl to 4bbl you had to change the intake and that means you probably had to remove and replace the distributor. So, you could have; 1.) an intake manifold leak, 2.) a carb leak, 3.) the distributor is on wrong.
It's not clear if the truck was running right with the 4bbl. If so, and if it suddenly started running poorly, then it should be much easier to diagnose. If you can get it running, put a vacuum gauge on a vacuum source and measure the vacuum at idle. That should help narrow it down.
My guess the carb you don't need to touch the distributer to cange the intake on a Y block another + for these engines.If you put a holley on the power valve likes to leek and makes the engine run like that.I fooled with one about a year.Through it away and bought a elderbrock.
Im pretty sure there are no leaks, as for the power valve i couldnt tell you. When i put the 4bbl on at first it was running well, but the secondary wouldnt open. I took the carb off and figured out the problem, put it back on and it ran ok but not as well as at first. I let it sit over night as it was late, went out to work on it the next afternoon and it wouldnt start unless you give it gas and keep giving it gas to keep it running. But even then it runs like ----. It sounded to me like it was missing, and thats when my friend told me to check the timing. We set the timing at 6* and then put the vacuum back on(with the vacuum hooked up should you still be able to read 6* on the balancer)it didnt change the way the motor ran. The carb is fomoco C2SE. I set the floats at 21/32, could that be the problem as the repair manual for the carb didn't list a pick up in the application so i went with what seemed to be the most common setting. I sure appreciate all of the guys and gals at FTE, there arent many people in my area thateven know what a yblock is.
Thanks
I know very little about carbs.sounds like to me that it is dumping gas into the engine.Maybe a peace of dirt got stuck in the float needle valve or something like that.As for running bad If the spark got soaked with gas it will not run or may run in only a few cylinders.I think that was missing problem try changing the spark plugs even if they look fine.It should run better as for the carb I don't know maybe some one who knows more about them can help you with that.
Sounds like the secondaries are hung open. Take the air cleaner off and look down into the secondaries with a flashlight. Work the linkage to open the primaries and twiddle the linkage for the secondaries to see if it is jammed somewhere.
The thing that I keep looking back to, is the first post. You say you have a lot of whitish smoke. Running rich or lean will NOT cause white smoke, it causes dark grey or black smoke. Whitish smoke means that water is getting into the cylinders. I think you have a cracked or blown head gasket. Hopefully it's just the gasket and not a cracked head.
Yup. Whitish smoke (smells nasty too) usually means coolant burning in the cylinders. Check your oil for milky colored contamination, and your coolant (you might see tell-tale rainbow colored oil slicks through the fill cap opening. There are other, high-speed ways of diagnosis by leak-down tests and of course a compression test, but if you are losing significant amounts of coolant and it ain't leaking on the ground -- you can pretty much figure it out on your own.
The smoke is definitely grey, it was hard to see the other night when we were working on the truck. Sorry about that. I think that i might have figured it out, the carb as most of you said is dumping fuel all over the place, but my distributor is not advanceing i think the diaphragm is bad. Is that something that can be replaced or will i have to find another dist.
Thanks
Mark
"Recently rebuilt" and white smoke sure points to a head gasket. Possibly never torqued properly. Its very important to torque and retorque, there are only 10 bolts holding the head on.
Also if you got a backfire thru that carb it is toast. Time for a new power valve.
I think your engine is fine.white or gray smoke in most cases is coolent but try and pull a plug wire off a good pre 70's engine and see what smoke comes out the exhaust pipe.Too much gas half burnt is black,too much gas not beeing burnt at all like blow by can be gray or white.You had said earlyer that you had to crank up the idle to keep it running.The timming is 6deg. at 475 to 500 rpm any more than that and the centerifical advance will advance and the vaccum advence will do nothing thats why you said that you had to turn it a lot to get it to 6deg.I think all you half to do is fix the carb.slow the engine down reset the timming change the plugs and oil.I am quite sure thats all that is wrong with it.I don't mean to step on any ones toes but all was fine before he changed the carb.And people do get discourged when they cain't get something to work I know I have.I think that is how a lot of these really cool Y Blocks get junked what a real shame.I feel they are a good reable engine should be kept running.All they need is a little time to get it right and after you do run it.