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I have a 1995 E350 with a 7.3. I need to find out where the IDM is located. Vehicle has no start, no power and rough idle. I have several codes for High to low side short. I have pulled the valve covers and checked the wiring. I have no burnt or damaged connectors. Fuel tank has been drained and clean fuel put in and fuel filter changed. Any help would be appreciated.
My suggestion would be to pull the covering of the wires to the valvecover connections back at least 8 inches and look for burnt wires. It's not always the connector. I bet you anything you will find your short. And certainly don't replace the IDM before doing this inspection. I got burned on 2 IDM's this way. And as for the location on a van, I couldn't tell you.
When you get it out shake it. If you hear water sloshing around you may have found your problem.
IDM is a box, apprx 4x6x2 box with a 40 pin wire connector.
Disconnect battery negative cable.
Remove left side battery.
Remove coolant recovery reservoir attaching screws and set reservoir aside.
Loosen attaching screw and disconnect wiring from module.
Remove screw securing module ground strap to body panel.
Remove module.
When you get it out shake it. If you hear water sloshing around you may have found your problem.
IDM is a box, apprx 4x6x2 box with a 40 pin wire connector.
Disconnect battery negative cable.
Remove left side battery.
Remove coolant recovery reservoir attaching screws and set reservoir aside.
Loosen attaching screw and disconnect wiring from module.
Remove screw securing module ground strap to body panel.
Remove module.
Read a post somewhere it is somewhat common for E-Series to get water in the IDM. Fix was (after replacing IDM) to cut rubber inter-tube and shield over top of new IDM so water would not drain from hood on it.
Or, maybe I'm just all wet .. sorry can't find that post.
I have located the IDM. Looked like some water intrusion in the connector and ground cable was loose. I am lucky enough to have access to another 95 7.3 with running engine but not drivable. I put the IDM into the other vehicle and it started and ran great. I have performed continuity check on the wiring from IDM to injectors and all test ok. Orginial vehicle with IDM back in still does not start, rough idle and no power when I can get it started. Any other suggestions?
Have an injector buzz test performed or
Get it running with the valve covers off. Look for oil spitting out of top the injectors.
No oil=dead injector.
I think I know where Neal was going with this. He unaware of your previous post.
Sometimes it best to keep the same problem in the same post. Avoids double questions/answers. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...roke-info.html
Neal,
That would be bad 1 cylinder in each of the 4 UVC harnesses....no common wire/connector that would cause his problem that I could think of.
Anybody?
I just had another thought, Have you checked the main engine harness where it lays over the driver side valve cover. The harness has been known to rub through.
One way to check the harness is:
Disconnect IDM.
Disconnect both connectors on the bank with the code.
Measure resistance between the low side and battery positive post, then to high side at the injector valve cover connector.
Are both resistance readings less than 10,000 ohms?
Yes= Replace the IDM
No= Fix or replace the harness
DTCs below indicate a low side ground short in the circuit between the IDM and the injector.
The following table lists the circuit to inspect while performing these pinpoint tests,
based on the DTC retrieved during the KOEO On-Demand or Injector Electrical Self Tests.
When I removed the IDM I checked the wiring from the IDM connector to C101? (main harness connector) and then from C101? to injector connections. Performed continuity test and checked for shorts to ground. All wiring tested ok. I inspected also for chafs along the main harness and injector harness. I had no change in vehicle performance or starting ablity while moving wires and shake test.
Does the wait to start light come on when your turn the key on? you said this all started after changing a fuel filter. If the WTS light doesn't come on check the PCM fuse. One th pickup its fuse 22 under the hood. Not sure one the vans. It will be a 30 amp maxi fuse. if its blown you need to unplug the fuel heater on the side of the filter housing.
Location picture in this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ing-fuses.html