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I studied the IDM pin plug a bit. I noticed that all of the cylinders that are out are in the same proximity of each other. Coincidence?? They are all on the left side of the center whereas the ones that are functioning are on the right side. Could the plug on the vehicle be bad or have corrosion or the pins just slid back in the plug in that area? I would ohm out the 4 individual plugs that don't work on the vehicle side of the plug since you said this IDM works on another vehicle.
They were pins 8,9,21,22
Just a thought from my feeble mind. You are in good hands here these guys know what they are talking about
Cuda thanx for the diagram.
Wait to start light comes on. I originally looked at this vehicle for my friend. It would not start and he had burned out the starter trying to start it. I replaced the starter and figured a fuel filter would solve the problem. It did not and that is when I started on this journey.
I checked all the pins and even though there was some water intrusion in the connector there was no corrosion. I took the connector apart and checked from the back side as well. I had also checked the circuits when I had everything apart and everything tested okay.
When I removed the IDM I checked the wiring from the IDM connector to C101? (main harness connector) and then from C101? to injector connections. Performed continuity test and checked for shorts to ground. All wiring tested ok. I inspected also for chafs along the main harness and injector harness. I had no change in vehicle performance or starting ablity while moving wires and shake test.
Thank you for the extra check though.
Dave
I couldn't find C101 in the repair manual but that doesn't mean t doesn't exist. I do not have a 95 manual, mine covers 96 through 99's. Some of the wire colors may be different but the pin locations in the connectors are the same because they are interchangeable.
The test I referred to was from C299 above (IDM) to the UVC connectors. IF you get more than 10,000 ohms the harness is shorted out.
Cyl #2 in the UVC (second pin from the front of the engine driver side front connector) to pin #22 in the IDM it's a white wire (W) circuit 556
Cyl #3 in the UVC (4th pin from the front of the engine in passenger side front connector) to pin #23 in the IDM it's a Brown w/ yellow stripe wire circuit 557
I studied the IDM pin plug a bit. I noticed that all of the cylinders that are out are in the same proximity of each other. Coincidence?? They are all on the left side of the center whereas the ones that are functioning are on the right side. Could the plug on the vehicle be bad or have corrosion or the pins just slid back in the plug in that area? I would ohm out the 4 individual plugs that don't work on the vehicle side of the plug since you said this IDM works on another vehicle.
They were pins 8,9,21,22
Good eye Neal, I was hoping to see something that linked all 4 injectors together but no luck.
I checked all the pins and even though there was some water intrusion in the connector there was no corrosion. I took the connector apart and checked from the back side as well. I had also checked the circuits when I had everything apart and everything tested okay.
It really looks like new injectors are needed...but I'd would hate to advise that and not be your problem.
A buzz test will let you know if the electrical part is getting to the injectors. To bad you aren't closer I would do it for you. You coud look around the New York sub forums and ask around.
The connector I thought maybe was C101 is the large connector by the alternator. The harness goes to the injectors. The other end goes across to the IDM. Before I had the pin numbers I ran a continuity test from the injector harness to the connector and connector to the IDM connector. I was able to find out which pins went where and tested from there.
All the info has been very helpful. I am going to look for a 7.3 manual to referance for future repairs. I have a Chiltons Full Size Van 89-96 manual but it is very vague on diesel engine diag.
All circuits tested okay but I will double check just to be sure.
Thanks
I will try to find someone to buzz test.
Dave
I would check inj poppet air gap.
Pull the coils off the inj's and check the air gap under the plate.
Min gap cold .0015. New inj is .004. You want to see .002 cold.
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