Welcome Home. Lots of white smoke and oil dripping out the exhaust is often a sign of the turbo seals as you suggested. Sounds like a new turbo is in your future.

Since it sounds like you need to pull your valve covers I'll just quote Dan on what he always preaches to us

Your local International dealer will have better prices on the wiring harnesses than the Ford dealer will. The only part numbers I know are the UVCH numbers

Wiring Harness, Injectors & Glow Plugs
Int'l 1830844C93

If your harnesses are good, you can just use the Retainer clips for the UVC
Int'l 1844193C91

A bad injector can cause the knock too. You're buddy with the scanner will be able to perform an injector buzz test. You can also inspect the oil coming out of the injectors and look for one that doesn't match what the others are doing.

How big was the under hood fire and what wiring harnesses were affected. You may be looking at a new IDM as well.

 

it was a decent sized fire but there are alot of parts with "minor" meltin damage on them so i dont thinkl it was too big nor did it burn for very long.but the harness looks trashed.its patched in like 4 or 5 different spots.ill have to check all the rocker arm torque since ill be under there anyways.i need to find a local national dealership to get this harness.where is the IDM? and the international engine code is 444e? right?

 

Be carefull what you wish for. I have 2 1/2 years in Iraq. In Jan. I said you know Im tired of Iraq, I would rather get an Afghan trip. 3 months later I started my year trip to Afghan.

 

I would say pull the codes and see if there is any significant failure. Even though you don't have a check money light showing, a good scanner will run onboard test. Like previous poster said, buzz test, and I would also suggest cylinder contribution test. Those two should narrow down injector/fuel trouble plus possibly some others. Also an infrared handheld thermometer will come in handy and can be had cheaply nowadays. If you are having combustion problems, it can help narrow down where you need to be looking. Good Hunting and thanks for your service
Chad

 

The International designation is T444e. The IDM is in the drivers fender above the wheel well liner. It basically sits behind your F250 badge.

 

ok so we ran the scanner on it the other night and this is what turned up.it threw every code in the book. p0102,0103,0106,107,108,109,112,113,116,117,118 ect. ect. it poped no codes from the pcm itself and it poped no codes from the injectors themselves. so im definatly thinking this wireing harness is screwed and the new one will be here next week.all the codes i glanced at were sensors low voltage/high voltage so im guess the guys before me spliced wires into different sensors or something like that.does anyone have any ideas on this?

 

wow accessing the IDM was actually a real pain becuz of my fender flares but i got it.the new harness is in but i still got nothing.no start. but the odd thing is no codes.apparently as we rescaned it the codes we pulled up were logged codes.old ones.so it is actually throwing no codes right now.but there r still some things i want to replace.but none of them should keep the truck from starting.i really dont know y it wont start i need some help..... does anyone know if we have a fuel shut off switch and where its at so i can check to make sure it hasnt been tripped.any help would be great.im pretty confused now

 

The fuel shut off is a red button located inside the cab on the front passenger kick panel.

What happens when you try and start? With the key on, do you hear the fuel pump humming? Will the motor turn over but not start? Have you removed the lid to the fuel filter to make sure the bowl is full of fuel?

You can also check to make sure your oil level is good. Check the oil level in the HPOP reservoir to make sure it hasn't drained down. Get the batteries load tested since weak batteries will spin the motor but cause a no start. Also check your fuses. A blown fuse can keep the truck from starting.

 

yea the truck spins but no start.fuel bowl has fuel.i can hear the fuel pump.and the oil level is good.....not sure on fuses this thing is so messed up i dont know if the fuses r even in the right place.i have a few empty spots in my fuse box that may be an issues.but it did start before and no fuses r blown since. thnx yall and as for the oil,smoke,and the big problem.......ok i just got my turbo off and found all kinds of new goodies....not.... ok so my spider is deffimnatly toast the clamp that clamps the turbo and spider i guess someone before me tightened it way too much and cracked the spider houseing....this would explain the black smoke under boost. as for the white smoke jus off idle i found new stuff.i had oil leaking out my exhaust pipe half way down the truck so this told me turbo seal right away.but when i pulled my turbo today i found that my driver side up pipe has oil in it as well.so it has to be an injector o ring or vavle giude seal.but how do i know whaich one and which cylinder? also can the oil in the up pipe jus be from a bad tirbo seal?either way im haveing majestic turbo rebuild my turbo jus to be safe. so does anyone happen to have a spider jus laying around they wouldnt mind seperateing with? also i got oil on the intake side of the turbo but not really that much jus a very lil bit but i think i remeber reading somewhere on here that that was normal.thnx yall

 

Well it sounds like you're at least making progress in identifying your symptoms. For the no start issue, make sure you've got the new harness plugged in correctly everywhere. Maybe try unplugging the ICP or Fuel bowl heater to see if one of those is giving you problems.

Do you have an owners manual? If not you can download one here https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp

If the no start happened after you put in the new harness, you might be missing a fuse that was bypassed with the old "repaired" wiring.

 

no it wouldnt start before the harnewss was replaced.i am makeing progress tho this thing is jus such a mess..... hey do yall know which relay runs the ESOF??? like which number it is? cuz im thinking mine is toast....also i have 3 "blank" spots in my fuse box like there should be relays there anyone have the same thing? i think its relays number 210 211 and 212

 

Looking at the manual in the above link, 210, 211 & 212 are not used.

Fuse 19 says 4 x 4 module & Fuse 111 says 4wd/shift on the fly

 

o wow lol....im retarded.... ok cool ill have to double check those fuses to morrow its raining now. i keep hearing tho that there is a relay somewhere for this thing too but i think i heard it was under the hood. i may be wrong tho

 

ok im going to replace the injector o rings and the valve guide seals.. according to the dealer the intake and exhaust valve guide seals r the same,this didnt sound right to me.....is this correct? also is there any special things i need to do here? or is it like a gas motor simple pull out replace,put in? valve adjustments? oil priming in the injectors? ect. ect. o also im doin this heads on,,,,,,, useing the comprsor adaptor on the glow plug hole.compressed air in the cylinder so the valves dont drop. also can any one walk me thru doing a compression test? like step by step.....i jus got a compression tester and wanna make sure that the oil isnt comeing from worn rings.? im thinkin its an exhaust valve guide seal because there is so much oil comeing out the cylinder that i would think it would burn otherwise. anyhow thnx everyone and hope after this i can get her together and runnin.

 

ok makeing a new post....can i get the mods to delte this post please?