Stuck timing!
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From: Coweta,GA, GO DAWGS!!!!!!
Stuck timing!
OK, more experienced folks.....I got a 77-150 w/351M.
I recently went from a stock 2bbl w/iron manifold to a 4bbl holley w/edlebrock man. Everything worked out just right, been there and done that.........now the problem, I have a timing issue...I know it's advanced from the way it acts but I can't adjust it, the distributor is stuck in the block bore and won't budge......I know, I know, set it to #1 and pry it up, check it out and go from there, but......any of ya'll got an old trick for getting em unstuck w/o removal---say a quick fix??
I have plans to upgrade to a better timing set up but right now I don't have the time nor the money to mess with it!!
It's a daily driver and she gives no problems I just don't have the timing curve and pick up that I would expect from this simple up grade swap....she goes from a stop and get's up and goes on the top end I simply have a lagg in the middle of the rpm range from the timing being too far ahead of the mixture....so I know what's going on just wanna know if ya'll have any tricks to break the dist loose w/o breaking the dist!
Thanks, ANG
I recently went from a stock 2bbl w/iron manifold to a 4bbl holley w/edlebrock man. Everything worked out just right, been there and done that.........now the problem, I have a timing issue...I know it's advanced from the way it acts but I can't adjust it, the distributor is stuck in the block bore and won't budge......I know, I know, set it to #1 and pry it up, check it out and go from there, but......any of ya'll got an old trick for getting em unstuck w/o removal---say a quick fix??
I have plans to upgrade to a better timing set up but right now I don't have the time nor the money to mess with it!!
It's a daily driver and she gives no problems I just don't have the timing curve and pick up that I would expect from this simple up grade swap....she goes from a stop and get's up and goes on the top end I simply have a lagg in the middle of the rpm range from the timing being too far ahead of the mixture....so I know what's going on just wanna know if ya'll have any tricks to break the dist loose w/o breaking the dist!
Thanks, ANG
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my very old shop teacher once told me to pour brake fluid around the dizzy
and wait about a week? maybe I should have listened, but I was 16 and used a chain and a cherry picker to pull it out. It worked for me back then, but probably won't try it again. good luck.
and wait about a week? maybe I should have listened, but I was 16 and used a chain and a cherry picker to pull it out. It worked for me back then, but probably won't try it again. good luck.
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From: The Vieux Ford, Kansas
Bimetallic corrosion-Aluminum dist in iron block I have seen this many times. When they get good and sized I have had to break them out with a chisel it can get really ugly I would try soaking it with penetrating oil and I hate to say it because this is how I break most of em but if you can get a pipe wrench on them some times you can get them to turn but be careful. I would soak it good at least one a day for a week and see if you can get it freed up before you break out the wrench.
-Johnboy
-Johnboy
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From: East Central Ia
I think it was Snap-on used to make a tool for the Y-block dist. It was like a fork with a bolt off to the side, screwed the bolt down and it pushed up on the housing, maybe something like that. Did have a 400 that was stuck. it took a can of PB blaster a week and some crow bars but it did come out.
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From: Coal Country, ND
On my 79 I used Pb blaster and let it sit overnight. The next day I got a buddy to help me, I used a BIG channel lock to work it back and forth and he used a pry bar to give it some upward pressure. It eventually popped out.
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From: southeren Oh
PB blaster: Very good stuff indeed. Like the previous poster said Get it to turn first then there will be much less of a chance of breaking the housing when trying to remove it. When it goes back in slobber it up with never seize.
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This is the EXACT method that I used. It took some time and a lot of twisting, tapping, prying and hoping but it came out. My initial problem turns out to be that the arm for the vacuum advance was broken allowing it to change timing whenever it got jarred. I ended up replacing it with another unit altogether.
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