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Old May 4, 2008 | 09:20 PM
  #16  
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between the hub and clutch,think it's your mark closest to compressor
 
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Old May 4, 2008 | 09:22 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
between the hub and clutch,think it's your mark closest to compressor
The larger gap in the picture?
I know it's tough to tell. Sorry for the poor image quality.
 
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Old May 4, 2008 | 09:28 PM
  #18  
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see if this helps

Ford Mustang A/C Compressor Clutch
 
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Old May 4, 2008 | 09:53 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
Yes...that helped.
(note: this is a Mustang A/C compressor...not F-250)

A/C Clutch Air Gap :
<CENTER> </CENTER>
  1. Measure air gap between A/C clutch and A/C clutch pulley mating surfaces at three equally spaced locations with Feeler Gauge D81L-4201-A or equivalent. Record the measurements.
  2. If each of the three measurements taken is not within 0.35-0.85 mm (0.014-0.033 inch) , remove the A/C clutch.
  3. Remove and measure the A/C clutch hub spacer. Select the appropriate thickness A/C clutch hub spacer to place the air gap within specified limits.
  4. Install A/C clutch hub spacer and A/C clutch. Recheck air gap measurement.
 
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Old May 4, 2008 | 09:54 PM
  #20  
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the basics are the same
 
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Old May 9, 2008 | 09:48 PM
  #21  
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I finally got around to doing this today. Sometimes, finding a spare hour or two to work on my truck can be tough. Turns out I only needed about 20 minutes.

Removing the chutch shim is a breeze. I removed the upper hose from the degas bottle, and moved the bottle out of the way. An 8mm bolt is all you need to remove to get the clutch assembly off. I only had one thick shim inside the hub. When I put the assembly back on without it, I still had +/- .020 clearance. I'm just going to run it like that.

Somewhere, someone posted a helpful tip that I think needs to be restated. When you go to remove the 8mm bolt, the clutch assembly will free-spin. If you turn the key to the on position, it activates the electromagnet on the clutch and will hold it fast while you loosen the bolt. Easy peazy.

My clutch is pretty worn, but I'm guessing this quick-fix will get me at least another 6 mos to a year before having to replace the whole clutch assembly. The local dealership wants $185 for the replacement parts.
 
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Old May 9, 2008 | 10:07 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by xrDan
.

My clutch is pretty worn, but I'm guessing this quick-fix will get me at least another 6 mos to a year before having to replace the whole clutch assembly. The local dealership wants $185 for the replacement parts.
you never know how long they last,on my last dump truck I removed the shims at about 140k and at 390k when I sold it was still going
 
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Old May 9, 2008 | 10:30 PM
  #23  
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Oh...one thing I want to add...
many sincere thanks to everyone who provided advice on my latest dilemma.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 11:39 AM
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Wink

Couple of questions:Can you remove the shim completely if there is only 1 fairly thick one in there?? or must you put a thin one in? and where can you buy the shims? and if I were to try & make one from a soda can which would I use-the main can itself or the end piece?? Thanks!
 
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