1972 F250 Overheating
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New User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Centerville, VA
1972 F250 Overheating
My 1972 F250 Camper Special with 390 and C6 is overheating. Need advise from any readers who can help with this problem. Radiator is original. I flushed it with cleaner and replaced the coolant with fresh anti-freeze. Also replaced the thermostat. This helped some, but truck still overheats in traffic and at idle. Mechanic says that radiator needs to be rodded and will do the job for $350.00. I can get a new radiator for about $160.00. What does rodding do and is this something I can do myself? Is it better to replace the radiator, or have it rodded given that this will retain the original radiator and avoid difficulties finding the correct replacement.
Last edited by Norm Spaulding; Apr 28, 2008 at 03:46 PM. Reason: Correct typo
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2003
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Original radiator from '72 is more than likely plugged. Don't buy one of those bargain radiators from 1-800-radiator or one of those other places that sell Indonesian made radiators (they last about a year). Save yourself some money and pull your own radiator out and take it to a reputable radiator shop (not many left around here) and have them pull a tank off and rod out the core. If they tell you, after rodding that your core is no good, have your radiator re-cored with a quality Modine core. Your mechanic is probably charging you an hour labor to remove and reinstall your radiator, apply that money to the radiator shop. If you need a re-core, insist on a Modine core.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Norm, I think before I pulled it, I would have a radiator shop power flush it. You can get gunk built up in the engine as well. I think a new Modine rad. is about $160.00.
Once it's time to refill I do suggest using grocery store distilled water with your antifreeze for your 50/50 mix. This will help keep it green for years to come.
John
Once it's time to refill I do suggest using grocery store distilled water with your antifreeze for your 50/50 mix. This will help keep it green for years to come.
John
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
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I just had mine checked and was leaking. Apparently it was previously repaired, leaking in the same area and the shop strongly suggested a new one. I guess the original expansion tank (top) popped. I hope I did not get one from Asia! Never checked. $205.00 -
LMC and the other suppliers wanted a mint in shipping one up here.
LMC and the other suppliers wanted a mint in shipping one up here.
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Joined: Apr 2008
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fe overheat
hi Norm, While you are addressing the radiator issue, if you do not already have a fan shroud, now is the time to put one on. I see people put lots of money into these trucks trying to cool them to no avail,IE- elec. fans, alum.radiators, oil coolers, hi-cap trans coolers, high flow alum. water pumps, flex fans, etc.
There are some new aftermarket shrouds available on the internet (one is a VERY nice fiberglass unit that looks just like a period factory part) but they are over $100. I prefered to go to the junkyard myself for an afternoon and $20, but to each their own! Any shroud that basicaly fits the cooling area of the rad and frames the outer diameter of the fan well will make a huge difference in the cooling of your truck. more so than any other mod.
If you do end up with an import radiator (which is almost inevitable unless you spend $300) reduce the pressure rating of the cap by a few #s, IE- if you had a 12 lb. cap, run a 9 lb. This will lower the boiling point by a few degrees, but not enough to make a real difference. But it will extend the life of the radiator by a few years. Hope this is useful, good luck!
There are some new aftermarket shrouds available on the internet (one is a VERY nice fiberglass unit that looks just like a period factory part) but they are over $100. I prefered to go to the junkyard myself for an afternoon and $20, but to each their own! Any shroud that basicaly fits the cooling area of the rad and frames the outer diameter of the fan well will make a huge difference in the cooling of your truck. more so than any other mod.
If you do end up with an import radiator (which is almost inevitable unless you spend $300) reduce the pressure rating of the cap by a few #s, IE- if you had a 12 lb. cap, run a 9 lb. This will lower the boiling point by a few degrees, but not enough to make a real difference. But it will extend the life of the radiator by a few years. Hope this is useful, good luck!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Blairsville,Ga
I wouldn't spend much or any on a 36 year old radiator,I think you can still get a 4 row core for around $300
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2003
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Tanks don't normally go bad, the seam at the core does or the core itself does. I have a C1TZ radiator in my '63 that's been re-cored. It's been my daily driver for the past 25 years...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Blairsville,Ga
I realize tanks don't go bad,but the radiator I have bought in the past came equipped with tanks already installed
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From: Centerville, VA
All...thanks for the valuable input. Never ceases to amaze me how much you can learn from the knowledge and experience of others. I bit the bullet and ordered a new Modine radiator. Not cheap, but what is nowadays? Will definitely follow advise on radiator cap and shroud.
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