98 ranger clutch
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98 ranger clutch
ok i got my 98 with 218k and stock clutch and its finally went out but what i was wantin to know that some auto parts store had wo different sizes for it i think like 8 7/8 and like 9 and i dint know how to tell which one i needed but every store had the 8 7/8 so i gto that one hopeing ity will be right i aint took the trany off yet gonna do it this weeekend but wanted to know if anyone knew how to tell before i took everything apart and did not have the right one i hope so cause the other one is abut 3 times more money. but thats that and i wanted to knwo if there was a way that i could get the speedo out of a ranger with atach would work in mine since i dont have one just think it be better if i knew what my rpms where
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
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I just pulled two and installed one of that style trans last week.
Tips:
Make sure your clutch kit has the throwout bearing and pilot bearing. You will also need the clutch hydraulic line disconnect tool. It comes in the Perfection brand clutch kit, might come in some others, and is only a few dollars. There are a few different makers.
Use it to press the white nylon sleeve on the hydraulic fitting inward, which will release the "fingers' in the transmission side fitting and allow you to pull the line off.
http://www.perfectionclutch.com/images/HT-01.jpg
A 13mm Gearwrench is VERY handy for the bellhousing bolts. I also used a long handle 3/8" flexhead ratchet with multiple extensions to get a straight shot at the bellhousing bolts. I did the top ones with the crossmember off and the transmission tilted down a bit. Some electrical tape on a universal joint will keep it from flopping.
Starter comes off with a 13mm deepwell (disconnect the battery first!). Rear driveshaft bolts were 12mm.
If you want to save hassle, get TWO bolts that match the thread on your bellhousing bolts but are about 3/4" LONGER. When you reinstall the transmission, get the bellhousing close and the input shaft started into the clutch disc, then thread the long bolts (stock bolts won't reach) through the bellhousing into the block at about the nine and three o'clock positions. Tighten them evenly to draw the engine and bellhousing together so you can install the other bolts. After they are installed, remove your "guide bolts" and stash them with the clutch tool.
The transmission is light, so I put the floor jack I used towards the rear of the case.
Unbolt the rear mount from the crossmember and the transmission before removing the crossmember. That way the studs on the mount won't drag or get damaged when the transmission is on the ground.
The throwout bearing is secured by a "coil style" snap ring, Use a SMALL pick to work it off gently and work the new one on.
INSPECT THE PLUGS ON THE TOP OF THE TRANSMISSION FOR LEAKS. This kills a lot of these trannies including the one I replaced. I cleaned the ones on the replacement trans. off with brake cleaner and sealed them with Plumbers Goo.
Here's what they look like:
Shift Rail Plug Maintenance
It's a light transmission and a fairly easy job.
Tips:
Make sure your clutch kit has the throwout bearing and pilot bearing. You will also need the clutch hydraulic line disconnect tool. It comes in the Perfection brand clutch kit, might come in some others, and is only a few dollars. There are a few different makers.
Use it to press the white nylon sleeve on the hydraulic fitting inward, which will release the "fingers' in the transmission side fitting and allow you to pull the line off.
http://www.perfectionclutch.com/images/HT-01.jpg
A 13mm Gearwrench is VERY handy for the bellhousing bolts. I also used a long handle 3/8" flexhead ratchet with multiple extensions to get a straight shot at the bellhousing bolts. I did the top ones with the crossmember off and the transmission tilted down a bit. Some electrical tape on a universal joint will keep it from flopping.
Starter comes off with a 13mm deepwell (disconnect the battery first!). Rear driveshaft bolts were 12mm.
If you want to save hassle, get TWO bolts that match the thread on your bellhousing bolts but are about 3/4" LONGER. When you reinstall the transmission, get the bellhousing close and the input shaft started into the clutch disc, then thread the long bolts (stock bolts won't reach) through the bellhousing into the block at about the nine and three o'clock positions. Tighten them evenly to draw the engine and bellhousing together so you can install the other bolts. After they are installed, remove your "guide bolts" and stash them with the clutch tool.
The transmission is light, so I put the floor jack I used towards the rear of the case.
Unbolt the rear mount from the crossmember and the transmission before removing the crossmember. That way the studs on the mount won't drag or get damaged when the transmission is on the ground.
The throwout bearing is secured by a "coil style" snap ring, Use a SMALL pick to work it off gently and work the new one on.
INSPECT THE PLUGS ON THE TOP OF THE TRANSMISSION FOR LEAKS. This kills a lot of these trannies including the one I replaced. I cleaned the ones on the replacement trans. off with brake cleaner and sealed them with Plumbers Goo.
Here's what they look like:
Shift Rail Plug Maintenance
It's a light transmission and a fairly easy job.
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