Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Clutch on floor. I have purchased the clutch master from Standard Auto Parts. Could it be the slave cylinder instead? No visible signs of leaking fluid under dash, on firewall, or lines to tranny. No fluid leaking from tranny or bell housing. Clutch will depress, and I can hear air / fluid leak sounds from under dash, and stick to floor. As clutch is being pumped up and down by hand fluid level increases in reservoir and then returns to normal level. Reservoir fluid never decreases. Again any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

Is a guess acceptable? If so, you have an internal leak in either the slave cylinder or the master. Am not familiar with the Ford truck system but have had other vehicles with hydraulic clutch's.

 

Welcome to FTE.

When I replaced mine I just got the whole master / slave set from Ford in a pre-bled unit since there's no bleed valve to make things easy. If you replace just the master make sure you get the air out of the system. You'll need to pull the slave cylinder and pump the little rod on the slave slowly numerous times from what I hear.

If you've never pulled the slave cylinder before it's just a 1/4 turn CCW, then angle it down slightly and SLOWLY start to pull it out. Before you get it all the way out stick your finger in there and hold the little plastic tip on the end of the slave rod so it doesn't fall off in there.

Also remember the clutch pedal is held down on the floor by a spring. If you leave the pedal down while removing things there's a chance the spring loaded pedal will snap up and greet you.

 

Once clutch is depressed it will not return to original position. Unless you reach down and pull it up.

Thanks

 

Thank you both.

f350-6, how long does it take to replace? The ford dealership acted like it was a 5 hour job? How much did Ford hit you for on the complete pre bled kit?

Thanks

 

I don't remember how much the set was, but I want to say $150 or so. If you're not in a hurry (which I was) you can order it online from one of our sponsors that are Ford dealers at a discount.

Now that I've changed one I could do it again in about 20 min. It took closer to an hour the first time, with most of that trying to figure out how to get the rod off the clutch pedal. It's very easy to change out. I'll walk you through the steps if you need help.

 

That would be great. Better than a manual.

I see you are from Texas, what part.

 

I'll go from memory here, so someone else correct me if I miss something. I described above about all that's involved in removing the slave cylinder. I used a pair of channel locks to rotate it.

The rest in no particular order. Remove the clutch pedal position switch from the rod on the clutch. Which reminds me I bought a new rod for the master cylinder with my set up. Don't ask me why it's not included. The CPP has a U shaped plastic cover that holds in on the rod. Remove the cover and the CPP just lifts right off. Look inside the CPP if your springs are broken like this.


Then your cruise control will start acting up soon. I got a new CPP from Autozone. That same rod you just took the CPP off of connects to the clutch pedal. There's a funny shaped clip in there that holds it together. If you stick a small screwdriver between the edge of the rod coming off the clutch and the plastic clip you can slide it right off the pedal.

Then your master cylinder unhooks from the firewall the same as the slave. A 1/4 turn with a pair of channel locks and you can pull it out. All that's left is to remove the clutch reservoir, I just cut the back of those plasitc pins off since the new set up comes with new pins.

Install your new, or remove and re-use your old master cylinder push rod, then just plug and snap the new unit in place. The unit will come with a plastic piece that holds the end of the slave rod in. After you get it all installed pushing the clutch the first time breaks the tab to make it all work.

That turned out more wordy than I intended. If I rambled and didn't make sense let me know. I'm live South of the DFW area.

 

F-350-6,

Thank you very much for the help. This is the best site for information. Your instructions made the replacement a breeze. 1 hr. and 18 minutes to be exact. I thought it was pretty quick for the first time. I can't believe that 1 dealership had quoted 900 + tax and another 1120 + tax to replace the slave master cylinder & clutch master cylinder. The part was 189 and change with tax. Thanks again.

 

Glad to hear it. Now that you've done it once you could probably cut the install time in half. And just think how many of these a Ford tech has done. They can probably do this in 15 min, so it's hard to believe how much money they want to charge for some things.

Stick around and do some reading. There's lots more to learn and your already money ahead.

 

erhig ranch, welcome to the great world of FTE.

Chris, cudo's for doing a great job helping with the fix. Tried to give you reps but can't.

 

My Ranger's slave cylinder started leaking badly. So I went looking for it, and I actually couldn't even find it!! Turns out that tranny uses a one-piece slave/throw-out that mounts directly on the face of the tranny around the input shaft. That's right folks, to fix it, the tranny comes out. Well, since I was doing that job, I figured I go ahead and do the clutch. This is at about 85 or 90k on the truck. Pull it apart, and there is PLENTY of material left . But I put it in anyway since I had it and had no plans on dumping it anytime soon. So I do all that in Dec of '06 and in Jan' 07 I traded it in on my PSD. I still get miffed about that -- I had no idea I was going to stumble on *my* truck the following month. I also did a complete fluids change in Dec -- syn rear diff, syn tranny fluid, and syn oil. All that someone else got to enjoy...

I guess this is completely OT, but I feel a little better now...

Oh, and good job Chris -- I can't give any reps out either. Too much in the last 24 hours...