Mounting a towbar?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 108
Likes: 2
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mounting a towbar?
I want to install a towbar on my volvo 740 wagon (3400 lbs). I got an adjustable towbar rated for 5000lbs, and am wondering if it is possible, safe, etc to mount the towbar on the front as shown in the following pics? I am planning on drilling two holes in the bumper mounting plates, then attaching the towbar adapter plates directly to the plates (i'll put the front bumper in the back of the truck). Is it safe to tow the car by these plates? any experience? Thanx
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
I wouldn't. Those bumper supports are designed to collapse in a 5mph front impact, and no pulling, so they probably won't handle the forces involved. I would build a bracket going from the frame horn that the shock is bolted to to the front to hold the tow bar bracket.
Maybe even bring them out through the bumper below the supports so you can have the bumper and tow bar.
Maybe even bring them out through the bumper below the supports so you can have the bumper and tow bar.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 578
Likes: 12
I don't know volvos but I think those shock brackets bolt to the unibody frame. So what to do is to remove those collapseable brackets and make an adapter that will bolt to where they are bolted to on the frame. Don't forget if you are towing a long distance to either remove the drive shaft or CV shafts ah what ever that car has on it. You will fry your transmission if you don't.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 108
Likes: 2
From: Colorado Springs, CO
BPofMD, that's a great question. I've no idea. I do know that i have to unhook the driveshaft for towing, but how do I deal with the airbags?
After the first reply by Ford_six i was figuring I would have to take the bumper mounts out of the frame and make an adapter to bolt the towbar on in their place.
After the first reply by Ford_six i was figuring I would have to take the bumper mounts out of the frame and make an adapter to bolt the towbar on in their place.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 108
Likes: 2
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Thanx for the help. I'll be removing the bumper brackets (which are gas filled cartriges - like a shock absorber) and fabbing a bracket that will take their place to mount the towbar to. I'll still have the bumper off while towing, but at least I won't ruin the mounts!
The airbag sensor is, to the best of my knowledge, in the transmission tunnel on this car? Sounds wierd, but that's what a volvo tech site said. anyway, looks like i don't need to worry about setting the bag off, esp since i will be towing with the battery unhooked and the key on.
The airbag sensor is, to the best of my knowledge, in the transmission tunnel on this car? Sounds wierd, but that's what a volvo tech site said. anyway, looks like i don't need to worry about setting the bag off, esp since i will be towing with the battery unhooked and the key on.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
Good grief!
What you will spend on all of this far exceeds what you would on a used car trailer, and there would be no doubts about tranny trashing.
You can also use a trailer like that to move project trucks and cars around. I'd be past this in the blink of an eye.
I'd get a used car hauler trailer and be done with it. You can find them all day long for cheap in the truck and heavy equipment trader magazines!
CONSIDER: How much time have you spent going the long way around, and what is your TIME worth per hour?
RENT IT IF YOU CAN'T GET IT, but don't slow down. In my honest opinion, you've torn your car apart for nothing. This is not a slam against you, it's an honest appraisal of the situation. Never re-engineer the towed vehicle if you can transport it just as it is.
That IS the best way.
Consider the resale value, especially once you take your parts away.
*THOSE will in fact not be worth much, even if you save them. It's an exercize in useless modification.
Do you hear yourself, and how much work you are talking about?
BUY A USED TRAILER OR RENT ONE!!!
What you will spend on all of this far exceeds what you would on a used car trailer, and there would be no doubts about tranny trashing.
You can also use a trailer like that to move project trucks and cars around. I'd be past this in the blink of an eye.
I'd get a used car hauler trailer and be done with it. You can find them all day long for cheap in the truck and heavy equipment trader magazines!
CONSIDER: How much time have you spent going the long way around, and what is your TIME worth per hour?
RENT IT IF YOU CAN'T GET IT, but don't slow down. In my honest opinion, you've torn your car apart for nothing. This is not a slam against you, it's an honest appraisal of the situation. Never re-engineer the towed vehicle if you can transport it just as it is.
That IS the best way.
Consider the resale value, especially once you take your parts away.
*THOSE will in fact not be worth much, even if you save them. It's an exercize in useless modification.
Originally Posted by owner
BPofMD, that's a great question. I've no idea. I do know that i have to unhook the driveshaft for towing, but how do I deal with the airbags?
After the first reply by Ford_six i was figuring I would have to take the bumper mounts out of the frame and make an adapter to bolt the towbar on in their place.
After the first reply by Ford_six i was figuring I would have to take the bumper mounts out of the frame and make an adapter to bolt the towbar on in their place.
BUY A USED TRAILER OR RENT ONE!!!
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 578
Likes: 12
I second the trailer deal. Way less trouble than dealing with drive lines and CV shafts and all that. Now if it is a manual 4X4 transfer case like the one on my truck you can just pop it in neutral and just tow it.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 108
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
I appreciate the concern of the last two posts, but consider this. . .
I am a student. I'm heavy on books and short on cash. That's the way college is (in case it has been a while since you have been to college, just remember that the cost of college is raising at 20% more than inflation, which is growing at 5% more than wages). IF ONLY I COULD THROW MONEY AT THIS PROBLEM AND BE DONE!!!
My car is already licensed, titled, and insured. I am towing it once . . . once from CA to WY. I will remove the body parts, tow it, put them back on, done. Buying a trailer or dolly would cost $400+ to $1200+ (I've looked for months, I am well aware of the prices available to me) would require title and insurance on top of what I'm already paying on the car. Renting a dolly from U-HA-UL or like would cost $400 and I would have to disconnect the drive shaft anyway!
So far I have paid $40 for the tow bar and $60 for materials to custom fab a very simple towing setup. $100 would buy an axle for a trailer (no trailer above or wheels below). I want a trailer, I would settle on a less expensive dolly, BUT finances (initial and continuing) are not an option right now. I am willing to put up with a little time making stuff and removing 4 nuts (on the drive shaft) to save thousands of dollars.
call me crazy.
I am a student. I'm heavy on books and short on cash. That's the way college is (in case it has been a while since you have been to college, just remember that the cost of college is raising at 20% more than inflation, which is growing at 5% more than wages). IF ONLY I COULD THROW MONEY AT THIS PROBLEM AND BE DONE!!!
My car is already licensed, titled, and insured. I am towing it once . . . once from CA to WY. I will remove the body parts, tow it, put them back on, done. Buying a trailer or dolly would cost $400+ to $1200+ (I've looked for months, I am well aware of the prices available to me) would require title and insurance on top of what I'm already paying on the car. Renting a dolly from U-HA-UL or like would cost $400 and I would have to disconnect the drive shaft anyway!
So far I have paid $40 for the tow bar and $60 for materials to custom fab a very simple towing setup. $100 would buy an axle for a trailer (no trailer above or wheels below). I want a trailer, I would settle on a less expensive dolly, BUT finances (initial and continuing) are not an option right now. I am willing to put up with a little time making stuff and removing 4 nuts (on the drive shaft) to save thousands of dollars.
call me crazy.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 783
Likes: 1
From: Chicago Area, Illinois
you'll be fine man, thats a rear drive volvo there and as long as the drive shafts disconnected you'll be just fine. Ive done the same thing before with an '83 mustang, i had to remove the front bumper and the bumper mounts and install special brackets that came with my tow bar. as long as you can make the brackets fit securely where the bumper mounts go and that it all fits together nicely its good! (just make sure you use lock nuts!!) dont worry about the air bags goin off ive towed a few cars behind me from that mustang to a plymouth mini van and never had a problem!
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