Hi everybody, on to the next problem! (I'm laughing to keep from crying)

I need to replace the sending unit / switch that is in the right front cylinder head. Ford calls this part the "switch, fuel injection system temp." Part # E3TZ - 9E939 - A and International calls it part # 1803082C2.

Long story short, I can't find a replacement anywhere. Ford shows 0 on their national parts web, international truck dealers stopped stocking it, I have been able to find one, in Texas! (I'm in California, btw)

It would seem that this might be an important controller to have, since it is part of the GP harness and ignition system. Has anyone else had to replace this? What did you replace it with? If I can't find a replacement, what should I do with that portion of the ignition circut? thanx

 

The engine temp switch is known as:

E8TZ9E939A $48.00 sell $36.00

SWITCH FUEL INJ SYS

That is the switch that allows power to the fast idle and timing advance until the engine rises to 112*F then is opens and shuts off power........ You could use a wire and switch to operate it temporarily..... just use spade terminals in each of the connector holes wired through a switch...... run with it on until the engine "warms" or you drive away.

Online dealers might have a listing, but the ones I frequent don't show it now.

HOWEVER THE DIRECTFORDPARTS SPONSOR ON THE LEFT SHOWS IT BY PART # Give him a chance......

E8TZ9E939A $49.13 $0.00 $26.05

 

Thanx, one mystery down, next mystery. When hooking the harness up to it, which end is which? One terminal looks copper colored, the other is silverish. Is it possible to hook this up wrong?

 

Either way is good.
Power comes in on one terminal and out on the other untill the engine reaches 112 degrees.
Then it opens so the current stops there.

 

Could this switch be the reason my truck won't start ?

Glowplugs stay on the right amount of time, it starts when it's been plugged in so I don't think it's fuel.

I've read almost every thread about starting problems in this forum ......

Thanks


1990 F350 clubcab dually. rust free 120k miles

 

It could be part of the problem....... turn your key on engine off (KOEO)... press the fuel pedal does the fast idle solenoid set........is it adjusted to right RPM warm engine 850+/- 50. You can also check all IP connectors (3) for power .....KOEO.

 

Is there a way to bypass, jump the wiring to make this work? It would seem to me that a jumper wire from one female plug to the other on the harness connection would work the same as the cold start switch. If so, sprucebunny, you might try a jumper wire as part of your trouble-shooting. If that is a bad idea, one of the other posting members will quickly tell us!

 

You can jump all the swich does is conect the two under 112*. I would run wire from each end into the cab to a togle swich untill you can get the swich

 

The truck will run without that switch. Starting might be a little more difficult, but I've done it both ways and all it does for my truck is make it noisier when its cold.

 

The truck should start and run with out could start or high idle but i have heard of cases where it wont. Maybe a second problem contributing.

 

How easy is it to start a gasser with no choke or fast idle set..........hard and it usually won't run either. What your doing without fast idle and timing advance is the same.....

The louder engine noise is the result of timing advance...... ie a slightly advanced fuel injection timing 1-3*.... the fast idle allows a better running rpm and faster engine heating.

 

Thanks for the advice, guys.

I don't think it's that switch after all. When it does start, it kicks down after a while.

I had the fuel return lines replaced TWICE last summer and they are leaking again, so it must be a combination of things.

At least I got it moved out of it's (muddy) winter parking spot to where i can fiddle with it.