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I need to build a bad boy 302 with some nasty torque but within a reasonable budget and get decent mileage. ANyone have any suggestions? I already have the short block, the heads are gonna be stock ford but ported and polished big time. any input is appreciated
thankd
ty
GO with E7TE heads, they are '87 mustang heads with closed chamber for more compression, and can easily be stuffed with big valves, kinda like the pair I just dumped for $5 a piece, I wished I had known how good they were. Don't cry for me though, I replaced them with Windsor Jr's, but if we're looking for budget mods, go with E7TE's, ported (not too much, it'll drown your low end torque), and for that badass torque, pick up a Comp Xtreme Energy cam, no more than 256 intake duration, and push it with an aftermarket double-roller timing chain, it'll advance the cam from -8 deg. to +4 if you choose, for maximum low-end grunt. Hey Rage, you gotta be proud of me, I just recommended Ford heads for the first time ever, I guess y'all are rubbing off on me. Anyway, keep in touch, I got your recipe for some torque.
'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy, 378 ft. lbs @ 3500, 330 HP @ 5500 RPM)
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing
12 in town, up to 16 on the highway. You know as well as I do though, it really depends on how I drive it. 16 MPG is driving 70-72 MPH, which I can usually keep the patience for. I can go 78 MPH and get 13, which is what I like to do. I'm about to dump my 2.75 ratio open differential for some 3.55's and a limited slip, so we'll see where the milage goes from there.....
Make sure you go with a vacuum secondary carb, and a dual plane intake also. In my opinion, the Stealth is the best one on the market.
It makes power from idle to about 6500 RPM's for the 289/302. Also, if you can find some 69 351 Windsor heads, they're even better then the ones TK mentioned, although not nearly as easy to find. They have bigger valves and higher compression. With some slight porting (port matching to intake and exhaust, unshroud the valves) that you can do at home, they flow quite well. If you weren't on a budget, TK could REALLY help you build a bad *** 302, but he's caught some flak lately
for being aftermarket oriented. Another reason I would go with the early Windsor heads, is because the 87TE heads have pedestal mount rockers, and are not adjustable without extra work/money.
One other thing I do to get good milage is to run higher air pressure in the tires. I use 38 psi up front, 36 in the back, and always keep it aligned. I still drive with the tailgate up, I don't know if I beleive that it actually reduces drag.
If budget is an issue, you may consider a 351W and you will start off ahead of the game. You will spend quite a bit of money just getting the 302 up to stock 351 torque #s. 302 is a good engine too though. I have seen 351 get the same or better fuel mileage as 302 in the same application. (Heavier vehicles where the 302 is starting to strain during normal op)
By strain, you must mean my 302 pushing my F100 through 2.75's. I agree, a 351 would fare better, but that's why I'm re-ring/pinionizing my rear to 3.55's with an Auburn Gear limited slip. No, the fun never ends. Haha
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing
No, "I was actually referred to something more like a wheezing smogger 1979 LTD or a van application. I have seen the 351 beat the 302 on MPG in this situation on numerous occasions. I wasn't referring to your fire breathing 302. You get some manly gears in it right away you hear.
thanks guys. i think ive got my wish list all set to go. using torque king's comp cams 256 and a weiand stealth with a carter afb, harland sharp roller rockers, msd ignition, hedman hedders, and a cloyes true roller. thats the wish list anyways, we'll see what really happens.
ty
I am very impressed, Ty. That sounds like a killer combo. You'll be pulling a few more RPM than I am with that 256, but it is very well suited to that intake. Make sure you have good flowing heads, or you're gonna get bogged down bad. That setup is gonna get some great street performance, but I recommend going with some "manley" gears, like Fenders was talking about, b/c a heavy truck and a well breathing engine needs a higher ratio, and you'll actually get better milage, b/c you're putting the engine in it's designed RPM band. the setup you gave me will have peak torque at 4000 RPM, and peak HP at 6000 RPM (ref. Dyno 2000, Motion Software, Inc.), so I recommend 3.55 ratio.
BTW, PLEASE do NOT use Harland Sharp rockers. They are cheap, and everybody that has used them say they burn up real fast, so spend the extra $20 to get a set of Crane Energizers. They are vacuum cast, just like the Crane Gold Race, except they have a larger, more sturdy body, and much less deflection, while being easier on your valve stems just because of the fact that they won't deflect under RPM. They even come with polylocks, post up when you get 'em, I know some tricks that will save you hours, pain, and your back.
Otherwise, this is a very solid setup, your effective RPM range is 1000-5800 RPM, not bad for a street warrior. I have the Weiand Action-Plus, which is designed for extreme off-idle throttle response up to 6000, and I have the 250 cam, for some bitchin' torque below 3000 RPM. The difference in the cams is that the 250 makes 9 more ft*lbs at 2000 RPM, and the 256 makes 9 more HP at 5500 RPM. I picked the 250 cam simply because I drive at 2000 RPM every time I fire the engine up, and I'd feel that extra torque much more often than I'd feel the power from that extra duration. only slight differences though, but the 250 outpulls the 256 up to 3500 RPM, which is where the extra duration and lift take over. The fact that I'd graciously trade 9 HP for 9 more ft*lbs is what makes me the TorqueKing. The torque Peak is actually the same for both cams (with my induction/heads/exhaust configuration), but your results may vary depending on your setup.
Oh, and Fenders, I am also getting a bunch of peer pressure from 76RangerXLT to change that rear end. I'm posting over in the differential forum to see what kind of diffy to use, he's trying to talk me into a Locker, I was told by everybody to get an Auburn Gear Limited slip. I'm leaning towards the L/S with 3.55's, does that qualify as Manley? I'm as sick as you are of hearing about me being bogged down all over the place. What do you think about LS vs. Locker?
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