Hey guys,

This is my first post here, so hopefully I am doing it right. Please bear with me and I'll explain what I need.

My truck is a 1986 F-250 extended cab, 8ft bed, Heavy Duty XLT Lariat. I'm running a C6 tranny 3speed auto. I have the 5.8L 351W.

Now that that is out of the way...onto what I am inquiring about.

It's getting to that time of my trucks life when it definitely needs something. The way I look at it, I miss the days when trucks were trucks and plan on keeping this daily driver for the long haul. And so I'm trying to decide on exactly what work to do to it.

I've been researching how to stroke my engine so as to get high 400 hp (500+ is desired) and it appears that either a 383 or 393 cid is where I should be looking. A lot of companies say the 351 can be stroked all the way to the 400 cid ranges and still be used with relative ease on the street.

Eventually I think i shall want to supercharge the truck and possibly add nitrous after that (I have a death wish, apparently) as well as lifting the truck about 8 inches before adding my 38" tires.

CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH INFORMATION ON STROKING THIS ENGINE? I am finding it very difficult to get any good information on cams/rods/pistons/bore, etc. I can't even find what the 1986 351W original bore/horsepower output are. Also, what troubles am i overlooking? I figure the driveline will have to be redone and possibly axles, but i should be ok after the simple stroker, right?

Anything you have to offer would be greatly appreciated
please help

Thank you,
Heywood
:-X11

 

You're best bet is the 393. Aftermarket 3.85" stroke crank, stock 351 rods, and stock 302 pistons. Now, the tough part is getting the compression down to a useable level, Keith Black does make a 22cc dished piston that should give you around 9.5:1 compression with a 60cc head.

400hp with a 393 is no sweat...run a 220* cam and figure out how much you want to spend on the heads. Ported 69-70 351 heads with 1.90/1.54" valves would do the trick...or run something like AFR185s to make REAL power.

If you really want 500hp, you are no longer in the useable RPM range for a truck...so really evaluate how you want to use the truck. I built a 570hp (dyno tested by me) 408w but I sure as hell would never put it in a heavy truck.

 

>Eventually I think i shall want to supercharge the truck and
>possibly add nitrous after that (I have a death wish,
>apparently) as well as lifting the truck about 8 inches
>before adding my 38" tires.


Welcome to FTE Heywood. I agree with what Chilly has said but you need to remember this. If you're gonna supercharge or turbo charge an engine, the compression has to be lowered....say in the 7:1 range. So if you build the motor as strong as you can now, before you add a supercharger you'll have to change heads/pistons etc. to make the motor work with forced air induction. Just a heads up and something to think about. With a stroked 351W pushing over 400 ponies in a truck, you're gonna need stock in a tire company anyway. Hehe

Ron

 

Any advice as to what to put into my truck, then?
Let's say I never get as far as supercharging the truck and it just stays as a (we'll say 393) stroker.

I drive the truck daily now (although that will change once the enginework starts...obviously). Then it will be more of a good weather, go show off sorta vehicle but it's gotta be streetable as a daily driver just in case.

Basically i want to be able to leave as much of the truck stock as possible, just a bit faster and stronger for when i beef up the tires and start using it offroad a bit.

RELIABILITY is crucial. I don't wanna be ripping axles and driveshafts apart, nor do I want to have to really spend a lot of time rebuilding my C6 tranny. Any recommendations as far as rods,pistons, etc by company?

 

Lunati Cranks are indestructable, you'll have to have your bobweight data, then call Lunati and they'll make you one. I'd use H-beam rods, ARP Wave-Loc rod bolts, and KB hypereutectic pistons with total seal rings. Sounds like project "Iron Eagle" that I'm gonna build in the future, as soon as Dart releases the "Iron Eagle" SB Windsor block, which can be bored safely for street use up to 4.2", and takes a 4" stroke without any machining or clearancing. So, I'm gonna use a 4.155" bore, and a 4" stroke, with Cast Iron Roush 200 Heads from World, and of course, this block takes a roller cam and lifters, so I'll use the Xtreme Roller 258 from Comp. Dyno 2000 says this 434 in^3 Windsor small block combo will score 562ft*lbs at a mere 2500 RPM, and 408 HP at only 3500. Those guys running FE's and BB's will wonder what hit 'em. -TK

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

Heywood if you look in the tech article section you will find a couple of engine tables, all the way at the bottom, to help you narrow down what you will need as far as parts go. For example what size rods, crank, over bore, piston dish and so on. Also if you look in the classifieds section there is some parts for the 393 from a sports man block. If I remember right they are going for $600.00. It has the stock size rods which are "I" beams and 302 pistons with 15 cc dish top. He's selling the bearings and bolts also. Hope this helps some.

 

Eagle and probe make stroke kits that include the crank,rods,pistons and bearings.You really need to decide about the forced induction before building the motor.If you want a blower it's best to go with low compression pistons.Whatever you do if you are not experienced at engine assembly,have some one who is assemble the bottom end.The rod and main clearances should be checked.If you stroke it above a 408 you will have to have the cylinder skirts notched to allow for rod bolt clearance.You will also need to address fuel and air delivery.A bigger carb or injectors and intake,heads will be required with a stroked motor to reach it's potential.You might check out some hot rod sites like the corral.The mustang guys could offer some advice on needed upgrades.

Good luck,
Billy