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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 01:34 AM
  #16  
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Blue86f150
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Originally Posted by 86F150302
I originally made this box thinking I would be getting another cvr12" sub but turns out I cant afford it right now. So I was thinking I would port it to get some more bass. How would I port it? Just buy a round port drill a hole in the box and stick it in? If so where would be best to put the port and what size port should I get?

Here is the box I made. It is my 1st box ive ever made so I know its not good.
its 50" long 15" tall 8.5" bottom depth and 6" top depth.
Hmm... This box looks familiar to me. So you take out the Nitros and putting this back into its place?? BTW this is Jacka$$234..from youtube. yada yada yada. My first question is wat do you want it to be tuned to? Anything between 33 and 37 hz will be fine.

In my personal prefrence i would run the biggest wire that the amp can accept. You can always go bigger, but never smaller.
Let me know about the tunning Frequency and ill get back to you.

Also im running a 1400w max, 300 rms amplifier and i get some mad dimming goin on, to the point where my truck barely has enough power to stay running. Thats why im getting a 180amp alternator in the next few weeks. Over kill for right now, but im gonna be putting in a bigger system in the next few months. True 2000w rms going to 2 10" subs, gonna be off the hook. A total of probably in the range of 3500+ wats of power. Dont worry im gonna be getting 4 batteries to be putting in my tool box. BTW, this is gonna go into this--->, YouTube - 86 F150 stereo pt. 2.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 10:05 AM
  #17  
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86F150302
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From: Jacksonville FL
Originally Posted by Blue86f150
Hmm... This box looks familiar to me. So you take out the Nitros and putting this back into its place?? BTW this is Jacka$$234..from youtube. yada yada yada. My first question is wat do you want it to be tuned to? Anything between 33 and 37 hz will be fine.

In my personal prefrence i would run the biggest wire that the amp can accept. You can always go bigger, but never smaller.
Let me know about the tunning Frequency and ill get back to you.
I don't really understand the whole "tuning a box" thing. lol. For right now ill be keeping the 1 cvr12 because i just spent $400 on other parts. I just want to port it to get some more bass.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 10:37 AM
  #18  
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Alright, to make this is as simple as it can be, you will need to get a 4" inside diameter pipe that is 13" long. That will give you a tunning frequency of ~33hz, which is good for a daily driver.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #19  
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From: Jacksonville FL
Originally Posted by Blue86f150
Alright, to make this is as simple as it can be, you will need to get a 4" inside diameter pipe that is 13" long. That will give you a tunning frequency of ~33hz, which is good for a daily driver.
Can you tell me where to get one?
Also where should I place the port at on the box?
Thanks
 
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 02:50 PM
  #20  
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Just go to your local lowes, or home depot and use their pvc pipe, try to find the one with the inside diameter of 4". if you cant find one that is 4" inside diameter, get one that is close and let me know what the inside diameter is, cause the length will change. Also since the sub is on the driver side, port it on the passenger side.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 04:46 PM
  #21  
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From: Jacksonville FL
Originally Posted by Blue86f150
Just go to your local lowes, or home depot and use their pvc pipe, try to find the one with the inside diameter of 4". if you cant find one that is 4" inside diameter, get one that is close and let me know what the inside diameter is, cause the length will change. Also since the sub is on the driver side, port it on the passenger side.

ok thanks

How would I put the port in and secure it? Wouldnt I need one that bows out at the end to glue to the outside?

kinda like this
4" PORT SUBWOOFER BOX, SPEAKER BOX AIR PORT 4X5 - eBay (item 140222927141 end time Apr-15-08 08:30:36 PDT)
 
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 06:22 PM
  #22  
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naw you dont need to have the lip. Also the length of the port is total length, so wat you do is cut the hole for the size of the outside diameter of the pipe, with a jig saw, or a router if you have it, and just seal it into place with silicon and you should be fine.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 09:16 AM
  #23  
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From: Jacksonville FL
Originally Posted by Blue86f150
naw you dont need to have the lip. Also the length of the port is total length, so wat you do is cut the hole for the size of the outside diameter of the pipe, with a jig saw, or a router if you have it, and just seal it into place with silicon and you should be fine.

ok thanks
 
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 09:51 AM
  #24  
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also you want to brace it inside the box if you can. As it well rattle adn could break.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 10:59 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Truckin4life
also you want to brace it inside the box if you can. As it well rattle adn could break.
Damn I was hoping I wouldn't have to tear it apart again.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 01:14 PM
  #26  
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you MAY be able to get away with out it, depending on how long it is... But i would highly suggest it. If your going to be adding another sub to the box soon anyways, then i wouldnt worry about it, if its just a temp fix... If it is something that wold be permanent or even semi permanent. Brace it, you will be happy that you did.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 01:15 PM
  #27  
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btw nice pic witha stop sign in the back... last i checked that wasnt exactly legal...
 
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 06:05 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 86F150302
Damn I was hoping I wouldn't have to tear it apart again.
Don't tear it apart. Just get all thread for it.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 10:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Truckin4life
btw nice pic witha stop sign in the back... last i checked that wasnt exactly legal...
Unless you get them from the city when they are replacing them all
 
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 11:03 PM
  #30  
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hmmm... good excuse...
 
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