Good detective work Dan. Tried to rep you but you know how it goes.

 

Hey, sorry about that. I will re link them later today if I get a chance. For some reason I am not getting the notification of new post emails. In reference to the not being able to turn your wheels when stopped, worn ball joints can do it, bad alignment can do it among other things. Additionally, the valve in the hydroboost unit doesn't flow enough at idle, thats why it is hard to turn. If I roll just slightly I can turn fine. Guess I've gotten used to it. Larger tires don't help either...

 

Camo,

Reps to you for even considering re-linking the pics.

I cut and pasted the whole post to MSWord and was attempting to plug in the pics from your Photbucket album but got confused and didn't want to botch it up. If you get the pics re-linked I'll make a PDF out of it. That is if you don't mind.

 

Hey, sorry it took so long. I am re linking the pictures up right now. I have been on the road and haven't been near internet for a bit. Links should work around 1hr from now!

 

I just got done replacing my powersteering pump on my 2002 7.3 and figured someone may benefit from pictures and a written how to...

Disclaimer: Ford-trucks and I are not responsible for anything which can result from mis installation or other issues that may arise from following this tutorial.

With that said, you will need a 1/2" drive torque wrench capable of 60 lb-ft, an 11/16" socket, a 3/8 to 1/2" drive socket adapter, a 7/16" socket with extension, a power steering pulley remover and installer kit, 1 qt Type F <NOBR style="FONT-FAMILY: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: darkgreen; FONT-SIZE: 100%; FONT-WEIGHT: normal" id=itxt_nobr_1_0>Ford</NOBR> transmission/power steering fluid, a 5/8" open end wrench, a new teflon seal for the high pressure line, a crescent wrench, adjustable wrench for removing clips, a flat bladed screwdriver, a drain pan with rags, and of course a motorcraft or equivalent power steering pump.

*Just as an update, Ford recommends replacing the pulley after being removed 2 times. Look for some sort of marking on the back and if there are 2, then replace the pulley. It is a friction fit.




First remove the air cleaner hose from the main housing using a flat bladed screwdriver. Set aside.



Then, loosen the 7/16" spring clamps for the intercooler boots, you do not need to remove them completely. Set the pipe aside. CAUTION: be careful when removing the intercooler pipe as the always hot feed to the alternator is near where you will be removing the pipe.




^Hot side for alternator. Watch out so the pipe doesn't hit back of alternator!

Put your 1/2" square drive in the tensioner adjuster hole, and loosen the belt off the powersteering pump pulley.


Next, use your adjustable wrench and remove the overflow hose by clamping down on the two tangs on the spring clamp. You will use the same procedure
on the lower feed line on the pump's bottom.



Now, remove the high pressure line from the pump, positioning your drain pan below pitman arm as fluid will start to drain out.




Since you broke the teflon seal while removing the high pressure line, install a new seal by either working the seal by hand slowly and carefully expanding it with your fingers, or by using the special Ford teflon seal installer. I worked it on by hand and have no problems.






You should now get your pulley puller ready to work. Following are pictures of how to remove the pulley...













It takes quite a few cranks to get the pulley assembly off, but make sure that you always have your hand under the pulley as if it fell, the pulley could get damaged.



Now remove the three main bolts holding the pump to the bracket. These are 11/16" bolts and are pretty snug.




Once those three bolts are taken out, you can remove the lower clamp and hose from the old pump, and transfer it all to the new pump.




Position the new pump where to old one was, making sure you put the return line, high pressure line, and drain hoses on. Tighten the three bolts back in. Ford spec was 60lb-ft for the three large bolts, however, mine were really snug at 45lb-ft. Take it as you please.

Now you can install the pulley. Make sure you drive it on straight. Using the tool, thread the inner bolt all the way into the pulley until it bottoms out, so you have as much threads in the shaft as possible. Now, just crank the installer down until it stops going. This will align the shaft perfectly flush with the pulley face.



You can now reapply tension and route the belt how it was originally. Fill the reservoir on the pump with your Type F fluid. Start the <NOBR style="FONT-FAMILY: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: darkgreen; FONT-SIZE: 100%; FONT-WEIGHT: normal" id=itxt_nobr_14_0>truck</NOBR> and apply the brakes while steering lock to lock, paying attention not to hold the wheel at lock for too long. Do this a few times, then shut the truck off. Check the fluid level and top off accordingly.





That should be it. Have fun!

 

Much appreciated camodown!!...rep points added...

 

One hour only took 17 minutes. Fast work and Thanks.

I have converted it into a pdf file for easy printing.

 

I have gone through 3 P/S pumps UGH!
I am running bigger tires, though
first one lasted about 85K miles(stock 265's) and the second one last about 60K miles(305's)
Hoping I get another 60-80K out of this one(315/70R17)

 

That's strange.....I'm in an almost identical truck with 228K on 285s since day one and am still on the same pump. Looks like my ticket is about to get punched though...

 

Might try to add a Magnefine filter. Ford specs that for p/s pump replacement. I did not add one, but it seems like 60,000 mi per pump is a bit low...

 

Here's a write-up on installing a magnafine filter to the power steering system. LINK

 

Was yours puking fluid or just getting loud when steering? Mine seems to be louder than it was last year. I haven't liked the steering on this truck since I bought it. I wonder if my pump is on its way out.

 

great write up and pics!

 

Did you replace the high pressure line?

Where did you get a new teflon seal?....please don't say "the dealer"!

Thanks for putting in the time to post this info. I know how much work this can be.

 

I did the pump swap yesterday.

The rebuilt pump from Advance Auto (Carbone brand) came with new Teflon and rubber o-rings . I assumed the rubber o-ring goes on after the Teflon. Directions didn't specify.

Note to those doing this job for the first time, as wuz my case:

1. Make sure you have a decent steering pump pulley remover, of the kind seen in the pics above. A regular pulley remover wont fit and it wont allow you to press the pulley back on either. Its gotta be a PS pulley remover.

I had to piece together parts from 3 "rental kits" at Advance Auto to get undamaged tool parts enough to do the job. Those kits are used and abused with lots of small easily damaged parts. The main rod was stripped...it was a total POS which ended up wasting hours of my time.

2. When you put the pulley back on, do not push the pulley on all the way back along that shaft. (Like me! ) It only needs to slide on to the very beginning of the shaft so that all of the pulleys line up and the serpentine belt is not pulled left or right. Look at the shaft on the old PS pump and you will see how far the pulley was on. Copy that.

Now is a good time to put on a new serpentine belt while your there
(and a belt tensioner if you have a lot of miles) and dirty and the tools are out.

Now I need to figure out how to flush the system before I add new fluid and start her up.

Anyone know how to PRIME THE NEW PUMP?