I have been putting this off for a long time. A couple weeks ago my alternator went bad on the way to work. No big deal it had a fair # of miles on it. Just to make sure I tried to wiggle the cables and broke the p side double + in half. I have done new bolts in the terminals and lots of cleaning and jerry rigging through the years but still was not ready to shell out over $400 for a new set.


Every now and then some new cheap Chinese pos tool comes along and I just gotta try it. Meet the YQK-300 ($37 Amazon).


This bad boy has the big dies that we need to crimp 3/8 eyes to the ends of the existing wire.




There was some corrosion on the ends of the cables so I dipped them in nitric acid then in some baking soda water to end the reaction. Then smeared them with dielectric grease and crimped them down hard.



I ordered a lifetimes worth of large shrink wrap for $15. I ordered heavy duty lugs with 3/8 eyes, one 4/0 awg, two #1 awg, two 2/0 awg. I used stuff I had for the body ground (#10 awg) and the other positive (#8 awg). The terminals with covers were Amazon too.



I'm happy with the end result even threw in a new alternator pigtail for good measure. I have searched this topic before and never found the wire sizes so I cut back the insulation and came up with these #S. Hope it helps.

Cheap Chinese crimpers are the bomb.

 

Good job, Doug!

 

Thats awesome!!! I was just thinking about my cables the other day, mine look just like your old connections. Forgive me, im not that good at electrical stuff, can you explain which post you put 4awg, 2awg, etc. I figured they would all be the same?

 

Thank you for posting pics and your experience with those crumpers!

Did you marine shrink wtsp witt the adhesive or regular shrink? Did Amazon have the right connectors with 3/8 eyes?

i really need to clean up my cables and add additional grounds for the block/alternator. I want to do the 'Big 3' upgrade.

 

The main battery cable connecting the two batteries and to starter was $67 on Rockauto for Motorcraft a few months back. I can get a whole topside engine harness for $500!! Either way, if the cable ends are good no need to replace and end up with the thin factory terminal ends!

 

Mine were going bad like that this winter. I was in my buddies shop working on injector orings and I heard the sound of a cable cutter slicing through wire I look up and see my buddy cutting all my battery ends off. He grinned and said he was doing me a favor. Yours looks nice.

 

Doug,
Thanks for sharing the pics and info on the crimper. I need to replace my terminals as well although they don't look near as bad as yours




Dirtscooter,
did you save the part number by chance. Weighing options.


Thanks,

 

Thanx for the kind words.

jstihl, Here is how they go.

The smallest cable is the positive between the two batteries. It takes 2 of the #1 AWG.

The biggest is the positive passenger side to starter, it takes one 4/0 AWG.

The two negatives are two times the 2/0 AWG.

The other 2 small wires are 8 and 10 AWG or there abouts. These small wires took a hand crimper and some connectors that I had from a small set.

I did have to make a notch in the 4/0 eyelet so the terminal would go all the way down.

heavy duty lugs


shrink wrap

 

Answered my own question
2000 FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY 7.3L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged Starter Cable | RockAuto



$90 on Rock Auto and more other places I checked today.


Think I can buy crimper, battery terminals, cable terminals, marine heat shrink, etc for less and have the crimper for trolling motor, boat, and auto work down the road.

 

Allabout, I agree with you, We have another truck that will need the same treatment so the crimper gets more cost effective.

If you spend that $90 on the new Pos. you aint half way there. My negative terminals were no better than the positive. Then of course you have to fish it in there, probably take the starter down. I guarantee that 17 year old copper is fine on the greasy end.

I was considering these
Custom Battery Cables F350 cables

just so the terminals could always be replaced.
$400 was a little exaggerated but the sweat equity adds up too.

 

Thanks a lot doug, i really appreciate it , and im sure my truck will too!

 

I believe I have everything to tackle several electrical to-do's.

1) replace cable ends and battery cintacts
2) add additial grounds and fused alternator connectiosn
3) replace my alternator with a new Bosch 140amp unit

I have one question, my drivers side batter has a factory power wire that I haven't seen on other trucks. In the picture you will also see a corroded silver auxiliary power wire to my sound system, it will be upgraded to 2/0 welding wire with nice crimped connections.

can anyone add insight on the red factory auxiliary power wire?

 

Also, the originally posted pictures are now gone (unavailable from this thread) due to Photbucket's altered account rules and policies.

 

Mine has one on the passenger's side but nothing like it on the driver's side. Are you sure it's factory and not a well done custom connection? What's it look like under that post cover?

And being an Ex, it might be specific to them, did you check in their forum as well?

 

I don't know where it's going, but I'd be surprised if the cable with the Allen head lock screw was factory original. I've never seen one like that, and it wouldn't be my first choice, for corrosion and connection reasons.

Which battery is that? And where does that thing go? The cable looks beefy, but the copper is green.