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I have my engine down to the bare block now and it should make it to the shop to be bored by midweek. I got a price quote from Tim Meyer for a 400 rebuild kit and I am trying to pick my pieces. There is so much good stuff to pick but my wallet isn't that fat. I could get the stock entake and exhaust valves for about $80 bucks (for both). The SS intake and exhaust valves are $160 (for both). I am not planning on making any quater mile records with the truck but I want this thing to move. So do you think they are worth it or should I go with the stock ones and save myself 80 bucks?
also, do you guys think I need the gasket kit with the perfromance head gaskets with Tims pistions? Are they just a thinner gasket?
tim swears by the gasket he sells...it's not a performance issue. The valves may make the head last longer but will not give you a performance enhancement unless it creates more airflow by design...then it's still tiny. I'd spend the $...main thing i'd do is listen to tim.
Stock Valves Are Weak I Don't Know How Long The'll Last
Under Normal Operation With Stock Springs
But I've Read Many Articles On People Spending
More Money When They Had To Redo Their Engine
Because A Valve Seperated In Two Pieces And The
Piston Drove It Into The Cinlynder Wall........and
Couple Thousand Dollars Later Bought Ss Valves.
I think probably more important would be hardened valve seats. We don't have lead in th gas anymore. Kind of depends on how hard you a going to work the engine.
thebluemule said he wasn't looking for performance gains and his engine obviously doesn't need to have the seats converted. anyone who says ss valves aren't worth the $ clearly hasn't used them. they outlast any other part of the head. i'd much rather spend the extra time driving than tearing a head off to freshen it up or rebuild.
anyone who says ss valves aren't worth the $ clearly hasn't used them.
That, or else they don't want to run an intake valve that is softer than carbon steel alloy at low temps, probably has a welded tip (can't harden a stainless valve tip, remember?), and is probably coated with something to impart any amount of hardness (nitride, chrome, etc.). A one-piece carbon steel alloy valve is superior to a stainless valve, especially on the intake side.
For a 9,000 RPM racing application, a turbocharged or blown motor, you might see enough heat and corrosion to benefit from a stainless exhaust valve, but by then you've probably spent so much on your build that you'd be better off by going to a titanium valve.
acct21, you're right. But i was just commenting on how durable ss valves really are in a daily driver/street application. The hottest engines i've used them in were Harleys and have never seen one burn out or pit. But like you say, there is always something better.