When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I assume by the shim you are in referance to shimming the FPR which has to do with placing a BB behind the spring to increase fuel pressure.
The 10K mod has to do with placing a resister in line. If you will search for both the "FPR Shim" and the "10K Mod" you will find an over abundance of info on how to perform both of these mods and why.
i never thought of taking pics of the fuel pressure regulator shim, but i have plenty of the 10k variants, most claim max of 6 hp gains with the 10k, but that is the older method, i cant claim any number gains other then seat of the pants meters but if you can feel a difference in hp in an 7500-8500 lb vehicle then it is more then 6 hp...lol one day if i get to a dyno i can get actual numbers on my truck with the mod in and out, but without the mod there is a noticable difference in power.
the fuel shim i noticed no difference in power/economy
Thanks for the help everyone! I see in the pic the 2 different ohm resisters do i use both or just the 10ks? What size bb do i use and where do i get them ,and does it go before the spring or after the spring.
the bb is the same one you put in your bb gun, thus the name bb mod...lol do not get a 3/16 ball bearing, it will get stuck and cause problems!! stick with the bb from your local walmart.
the picture of 2 resistors is how i got a 14.7k icp mod in my truck, each pak is only .99 at radioshack, experiment with your truck and see where it is happiest, some guys prefer the 10k, others go as high as 22k, and one pshyco on here had a 30k or better in his for a short time. i dont suggest going over 20k as that is alot of tax on the high pressure pump and the egt's are sure to be high with that much extra demand. my truck is happiest with the 14.7k, see what yours likes
you remove the 3/4 nut on the regulator, the remove the spring, then remove the regulator itself. a small pocket pencil magnet works great or a small pick to get the regulator out, the bb drops in the regulator then the spring sits ontop of it, slide the whole assembly back in and reinstall the nut. the whole process takes less then 30 seconds, unless you drop something in the valley
Add to what c00nhunter just told you re the BB mod. There is a small "Tit" on the inside of the brass cap. Make sure that "Tit" enters the spring and stays there as you compress the spring and start the threads on the nut.
While you're under the hood, clean the FPR screen with a Q-Tip. Take the cotton off and use only the "stick" part. You don't need a lot pressure to clean the clean. The crud should come off easily.
Make sure you measure your fuel pressure BEFORE and AFTER installing the BB. You don't want to go over 80 PSI at idle.
Open the fuel filter and remove the filter. On the right side inside the filter housing you will observe a hole, an inch or so down from the top. Take a Q-tip and remove the cotton, then GENTLY insert the Q-tip shaft and GENTLY scrape the crud off of the screen. Use a mirror if it makes you more comfy.
Dam i am becomming less and less powerstroke illiterate,Thanks for everbodies help. My next task is to eliminate those long shifts between gear changes. Any suggestions?
Follow the suggestions re the test then determine if you fall within those parameters. If you do, you just read about the device that will CURE your slipping and un-conventional shifts.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.