there is no pic in catalog. the moderately brkt is a POS small little L shape piece of metal not to impressed with it. Maybe Steve can snap a picture of the big boy kit he installed.

that baby represents!

Ed

 

I definitely think it's a beast that will fix the problem for good, I'll take some pics tonight when I try to get a bit more done.

 

Here's some pics of it installed. Of course I gave the surrounding areas a good coat of my favourite, flat black rust paint.

 

I started reassembling everything last night. A few issues.

1) The plastic bushings, C9AZ-2474-A, that go on where the pushrods meets the brake and clutch pedals, fits only the brake. The clutch pushrod bushing is smaller, not sure if it's relevant, but the factory clutch one was gray versus the black colour that is the old brake and C9AZ-2474-A.

2) E3TZ-7541-B .. Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Pushrod. Absolutely no idea how to remove the old one. I removed the spring clip from the clutch master cylinder, but I couldn't see how it removed the internal blue plastic piece. So I just left it, I'll revisit it if I find the clutch needs adjustment.

3) The screws that hold the steering column baseplate to the firewall aren't long enough. The reinforcement plate is only 3/16" thick at the most, but it's enough to keep the screws from engaging no matter how mcuh force I push everything togethe. So I'll just go out tonight and get some longer ones that can still catch the firewall.

 

Everything is complete and back together. LMC truck calls out the correct bushing for the clutch pushrod so I'll just get it from them. I bought longer screws for the steering column base plate and the truck fired up fine last night and shifted gears and the brakes felt alright. Case closed.

 

Sweet. I didn't even know they made a kit for that. Mine went out around the clutch reservoir about 50 miles away and pulling a trailer. I drive a truck for a living so I got it where I was going and a buddy of mine and I fabbed up a piece of reinforcement and welded it up- no problems since. Glad to see you got through it.

 

I am new to this site. I read with great interest with what you said and agree. However, not all parts pc savvy are that way. I am certified pc/former parts/communications man when I worked at CAT and handled 4 of their facility's nation wide. I am not a mechanic by no means. However I believe
in customer satisfaction comes first at all costs. If I did not know the answer I would research and make calls for all my contacts at CAT. They never
had to second guess my promise they knew what ever their needs were,
I would meet them all every time. So lack of knowledge of car or engine
or anything that is being sold to a customer is no excuse for not being
able to take care of the customer. If you dont take care of them, they will go else where. Its not lack of knowledge, its laziness from the new breed of
people in this world, lack of self pride to do what is needed to maintain
the pride in ourselves and confidence of the customer. Just my views on this.

 

Hello Guys,
Just got back on and was reading the posts and viewing the pictures from
Tremclad on his cracked firewall. Mine is the same way I noticed yesterday,
I had someone push on the clutch peddle and brake to see the M/C move
about a 1/2in to 3/4inch outward and downward. The crack on mine is
above the M/C brack mount to the firewall and travels half way down
on the right side when your looking at it. Am I to understand that could
very well be the reason the clutch is extremely hard to engage in order
to shift gears? Also, I am wondering if just maybe the push rod joined to
the M/C is not bent and needs replacement? I am wondering if I should not
replace the M/C when I can. I do not think mine is adjustable nor do I have
a bleeder screw? If anyone can tell me straight up cause I called around
to all Ford Parts Depts. No one knows for sure? And how big of an area of
metal plate do I need to reinforce this firewall, I need to get this fixed before
it becomes undriveable. Info on stats of truck below. Thanks.
M.K

P.S Do i need to post a few pics for others to see?

88 Ford 150
2Wd
dual tank
Regualr cab
6 cylinder 4.9L straight engine
This clutch system is Hydralic I believe, does this still use a push rod of type?

Also, can anyone give me an idea why with the defrost running "it works
good throws out heat" but the passenger windows stay fogged up?
The duct work under the dash has a slight gap where air was leaking. SO
I zipped a few machine screws and used black silocone to seal it up but
it seems its not defogging very well. Any ideas????

 

A) Now that you KNOW your firewall is torn get your buddy to make up an 1/8" plate that reinforces the area and use some weldable sealant iF you're going to Mig it in place. Make sure you catch the transmission tunnel and the bottom of the cowl box as shown above.
You probably also need to replace at LEAST the lever to M/C pushrod clip.

B)There are 2 doors in the heater ductwork. first is the "blend door" in the heater core plenum. The other is the defroster door farther along in the ductwork.
This function is controlled by a cable that clips to the front of the heater box behind the glove compartment. if this clip comes loose, or the cable sheath slips in the clip, 'defrost' will not function properly.
The side window defrost was never too good in my truck.

 

Thanks. I take it is this is not a long difficult fix to do? Will this fix the problem of laying on the clutch to get it to shift into gear? Also, was
think of bolts instead of welding as it is difficult to find a welding place or
anyone who has access. Did you buy a reinforcement kit or make your
own? And how thick of steel should be used? I called advanced Auto
today thinking I should replace the M/C if I need to, they have them
but do not sell any push rods. I dont think mine has an adjustable one
as I have read on here and no one can tell me for sure?

 

Ask your Brother in-law to look at the pictures in this thread, and if he can help you make this part. (The ford part bolts on as shown) If not then buy the part from a dealer as suggested.

Does your push rod look like this, with a threaded section and a locknut in the middle?
If not, then NO it's not adjustable.




I hope this helps clear things up.

 

Where is this push rod located, is it behind the clutch peddle near the firewall? I looked but could not find anything. Is hydraulic clutch make
a difference in using a push rod?

 

In the preceding picture I am looking up behind the dashboard between the steering column and the gas pedal.

 

I have created a live action video of my 1983 F250 firewall/master clutch cylinder movement, which is probably what yours is doing also. It's on Youtube, click here to see it

 

Funny story, the green truck is dead. Now I'll be pulling all those reinforcement parts out because my new truck, a 1984 F150, is doing the same firewall separation thing.