New to site. Very sorry if I posted out of wrong area.

I Just bought a 88 f150
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=624 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>Just purchased an 88 150 6 cyl. Manual Trans 5spd. Runs very well. Just a few annoyances if anyone can respond to them I would most appreciate it.

1. Clutch needs to be engaged all way to floor "hard" in order to shift gears.
I added more fluid to clutch resarvore and it helped a little but not enough.
I am to understand there is not clutch adjustment on this truck, is it a clutch
deal or slave cylinder etc? In ordet to put it in reverse I had to stop the engine
to get it to go into reverse, other gears you got to practically lay on the clutch.
The resavore for clutch fluid is full.

2. Gas gauge reads empty most the time, and jumps to full or 1/2 full then
back to empty. Broken wire? Sensor? The 2nd gas tank in back was taken
off before I baught the truck. I am wondering if this messed up the gauges?
I noticed that if you switched from front to rear tank "rear tank is gone" the gas gauge
moves to full??? Switch it back to front, it reads empty. And Ideas?

3. brake lite-check engine-antilockbrake- all lights remain on. A short???

4. Engine turns over, idles a few seconds and dies. Maybe just needs a tune up?


Thanks again in advance.
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1. Neutral safety switch under dash on master cylinder plunger may need replacing. It's cheap and easy to replace. The other thing it could be is under the dash where the clutch master cylinder plunger connects to the clutch lever. There is a plastic bushing between plunger and lever. If that wears out and you're steel on steel they other things wear out worse. They must not be because without that bushing they don't stay connected.

2. Dunno
3. Dunno
4. Dunno

 

2. You have an open circuit to the rear tank-sending unit and that is why it reads full.
The front one sounds like a sunken float.

3. Check fluid level in the master cylinder.
Pull codes from the EEC Computer, post them and we will go from there.

4. Does the fuel pumps run all the time the key is on with the engine not running?

 

Thanks for the reply so quickly. Yes the resavoure is full. In fact, the first time we checked it was when I had an oil change done, the guy filled it a
little with dot3. That was last Friday, then on saturday I checked it again and it seemed very low. Replaced with more and it shift gears were much better. On Sunday it went back to hard to shift again, fluid checked seemed a tad low not much. I think it may have a pin hold leak but cant find any fluid on ground? I am not a mechanic. I noticed today when driving it again, I had to apply full force to clutch to it into gear. At times I had to
shut engine off to get it into a gear like 2nd or reverse. When trying to get it
into reverse while engine running "low idle by the way" it grinds, thats why I
shut it off first then put it reverse.

 

Almost forgot, some times when apply pressure to clutch, I hear a sound
like a spring being sprung? And the clutch peddle is not even with the
brake pad, it is much lower than should be with a lot of play in it. Is this
clutch assembly adjustable?

 

You likely have the infamous "torn firewall".

Does this sound familiar?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...the-metal.html

*edit*
There is this too,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...n-its-own.html

 

No it doesnt pop, the spring sound it makes sound metal like spring recoil. The clutch peddle has return when you let off of it, just not all the way to level with brake peddle.

 

I Have The 88 4x4 460 Auto,last Year I Had The Problem Of - The Truck Ran Good At An Idle,shift Into Rev. Or Dr. It Would Die. So I Had To Do The 2 Footer Thing To Drive It. I'm A Truck Driver An 2 Foot To Drive Is For A Dumb ***,so I Tuned It Up An Replaced The Coolant Sensor,although The Sensor I Found Out Later Was Ok.the Truck Ran Great. This Year Same Thing, Pulled The O2 Cleaned It,runs Great. An Also Changed The Fuel Filter. A Lot Of Guys Here Complain How There Trucks Run,now I Wonder If This Would Have A Big Effect An I'm Sure It Will, The Last Couple Fuel Filter Changes I Have Done, Theres Been Rust ,a Lot Of Rust In The Filter.that May Create Troubles In The Line Of Thinking Its A Sensor.the Last Truck I Owned Was A 77 F-350 4x4 An It Ran Like Hell,that Was The Best Truck I Ever Owned,although My 88 Has Almost 300,000 Its Been A Great Truck All These Years.also I Hollowed Out My Cat.

 

If, either the M/C is tearing the firewall or the clip in the eye of the master cylinder pushrod is worn out you will:
A) not get enough clutch release.
B) the pedal will not return all the way because the "assist spring" will not overcenter.

It makes a "sproing" sound?
Can you pull the pedal up either by hand, or with your toe while driving?

 

Throw-out Bearing Perhaps,or The Clip That Holds Bearing To Fork,i Beleive Theres A Pivot Ball Mounted To Inside Bell Housing

 

Yes I can pull the pedal up by foot. Like I said before if I mentioned it, after filling the
m/c with dot3 brake fluid the clutch peddle seemed much better, not new but much more
spring to it you might say. But yes, at times it makes a pring recoil sound behind the clutch assembly. I contacted the guy I bought this off of last week. He is going to call the man who he bought it off of as to the 2nd tank being taken off and bad gas gauge and clutch and all lites remaining on. Other than all those minor things, it runs really well, just needs a tune up. Hardly any rust on it. Very good tires as well. I have owned 3 Ford trucks - 2 rangers and 1 chevy. the 1st ranger an 85 I ran it for a year with no cam in it, thats true, the cam was completely rounded off. The 2nd ranger I just got rid of, it had over 325,000 miles on it and engine still ran in a heart beat. The transmission was for crap though. I could find a replacement to save it. The chevy I had for 11 years and only 1 tune up. BUt I will always prefer Fords...

 

Re: #3, brakes/RABS light on all the time.

Check the 3 pin connector on the Drivers side of the M/C reservoir and that the float switch inside is free to move and not all sludged up.


If it were just the RABS light I'd say check the sensor in the differential and bleed the RABS valve inside the frame rail.

 

The system should never need fluid unless it's leaking somewhere.
These things can be a PITA to bleed.
Do you have the metal or plastic slave cylinder on the outside of the bellhousing? (i don't have a 6 w/ a 5-speed so I don't know)

I would still look around under the dash while pushing the pedal. Between the pivot bushings and the pushrod clip there can be a lot of play.

Have someone depress the clutch while you look at the master cylinder from the engine bay. Movement there is indicative of a failing firewall.

 

I forgot to say , Welcome to FTE!

 

The slave cylinder is inside of the bell housing so if it's leaking in there than good luck, especially if you're not a mechanic.