Ok, i want somthing really durable and somthing that looks good but doesn't cost to much to paint my frame, subframe axles, 4link bars......everything underneath....

but, not bed liner, its too porous so its hard to get mud out....
powercoat would be hard to do, and is expensive
POR-15 would be ideal, but is expensive as well.....whats the best of both of all 3 worlds, durability, appearance (black), cost.....


help me....

Nick

 

They have other rust coatings like POR15 that work just as good (durable), and cost a lot less.

For the life of me, I can't think which ones.
Rust bullet would work, but I don't know if they have anything other than silver, and it's pretty expensive too.
The thing about POR 15 is it has to have a top coat to prevent from becoming discolored with UV rays from the sun.

 

Did a little searching, and found what I couldn't remember:
eastwood rust encapsulator
Zero Rust
Chassis Saver

among POR-15 and Rust Bullet

A little researching on those might come up to be something you're looking for.

 

The best solution for this is really automotive paint, and clearcoat. You can pick up in-expensive automotive clears for a reasonable amount of money.
You can shoot with a cheap gun and get good results. The adavantage is that once dry, the clear is durable and the shine will last. You can wet sand the frame, and subframe for a crystal clear shine. Rubbing out the tubes is as easy as just applying a little wax, and cleaning it off.
Try this, next time you are at the hardware store, pick up a can of crystal clear clearcoat by rustoleum. Take a piece of tubing, and spray it whatever color you want (black) then spray it immediately with the clear coat, and allow it to dry. It will dry quickly. You then have the opportunity to wet sand if you wish, but is not necessary. Now take regular old car wax, and rub out the tube. MAke sure yur buddies are not around, you will catch some heat for the technique required to perform this task, lol.
Then step back and watch the shine.
This will hold up just like the finish on the body, and is smooth so mud does not stick to it. Since it is clear coated it will not fade from detergents or contaminants found in the mud.
Not as good as powder, but looks the same for pennies on the dollar.
I do not recommend the aerosol can spray job for the whole truck, this will be expensive.
Automotive clear coats are pretty durable, and can be found at a reasonable price. You will get pro results.

 

do i spray on the clear when the black is still wet? i got a good paint gun, do you think the auto paint and clear would be more durable then the por-15 type sprays?

do you spray the POR-15 type stuff with a paint gun?

is the POR-15 type stuff just a one step process or would i need to clear that or lay something down first?

 

im thinking using the POR-15 type on my frame since its already a little rusty, then use the reg. auto for the rest.....

 

do you think 1qt would do my frame, on just the outsides?

 

When I spray the rustoleum, I spray that clear when the paint (black is wet) for some reason it does not wrinkle, or fish eye with this method. For the auto type stuff, i wait until everything is dry before applying the clear.
Chassis and tubing requires quite a bit of product since most misses the tube and gets wasted, so a smaller gun is often a better choice. Much depends how you reduce, and the coverage you are getting. Just going to take a little trial and error.
I have never used the POR products. While I am sure they are durable, I am not fond of the look. I like a pro finish that can be sanded and polished just like the finish on the body. Looks better, and is crazy easy to clean. Little soap and water, and it looks brand new again. Pretty durable when the mud blasts it too. Easy to repair when the surface is broken, or scratched.

 

That por-15 isn't all it's cracked up to be. Rustoleum is just as good if not better & it's cheeper.

 

I used POR-15 on my frame/underbody when I restored my pickup. If I recall I think I used a 1qt on the frame, and 1qt on the underside of the body.
Truthfully I just brushed it on (cheap wally world brushes) and it turned out really really good, it looks like I sprayed it on.

For the top coat I used rustoleum gloss black, which I also brushed on to protect the POR-15 from UV rays.

(Edit) The prepping gets a little annoying because you have to wire brush, degreese, and metal prep, pefore you can apply POR-15.

NIck

 

explain?

............

 

is any of the other options of the rust preventatives better than any others?

thats the same with any product id put on my frame.....but its better then the rust brown frame that it is now....

 

What about Durabak, it comes in smooth and its pretty inexpensive, shoot i may paint my truck with it. just another option.

 

thats just like the roll in bed liners, its way to porous so the mud will be a beotch to get out...

 

I am kind of pro-rustoleum. My frame still looks good after 5 years. Clean really well, wire wheel it, clean some more, and brush on the red metal primer. My frame has about $30 worth of paint.

I can't help you with gloss, as I went with satin, and like how it got more "flat" as time went on.