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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:31 PM
  #16  
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quadzjr
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From: Cocoa, FL
Originally Posted by teds74ford
I am kind of pro-rustoleum. My frame still looks good after 5 years. Clean really well, wire wheel it, clean some more, and brush on the red metal primer. My frame has about $30 worth of paint.

I can't help you with gloss, as I went with satin, and like how it got more "flat" as time went on.
you send a link to that primer......and if you guys want to send a link to the right gloss black and clear that would be cool two, im know next to nothing about paint......tell me everything i need......what do i mix it with?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:34 PM
  #17  
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Just my personal reference:


per Qt.
eastwood rust encapsulator: $34.99
Chassis Saver: $31.75
POR-15: $40.75
Rust Bullet: $39.99


one of them said you didn't have to worry about prep much, just wire bruch off the loose stuff and apply
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:44 PM
  #18  
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TN97STROKE
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Check out some industrial enamal SP? from someone like porter paints or paint for heavy equipment.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:46 PM
  #19  
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Its a little out of normal but I painted the frame and suspension parts on my 79 F150 with Rustoleum Professional Gloss Black in the gray can. We sell it for $34.95 per gallon. Its better than the white can rustoleum. I sprayed it mixed 50/50 and put on 3 coats and a coat of automotive clear with great results and durability. Granted my 150 doesnt get dirty like my 250 but it hasnt flaked or come off and for the cost you cant beat it. Let it dry 24 hours between coats though.

Its worth a try.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:51 PM
  #20  
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quadzjr
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From: Cocoa, FL
Originally Posted by TN97STROKE
Check out some industrial enamal SP? from someone like porter paints or paint for heavy equipment.
Can you send me a link to the stuff your talking about?

is there any prep work beforehand like spraying down somthing else first or after it? or is it just spray on and your done?
is it spray on or roll on?

Nick
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:53 PM
  #21  
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From: Cocoa, FL
Originally Posted by STGFordCrazy04
Its a little out of normal but I painted the frame and suspension parts on my 79 F150 with Rustoleum Professional Gloss Black in the gray can. We sell it for $34.95 per gallon. Its better than the white can rustoleum. I sprayed it mixed 50/50 and put on 3 coats and a coat of automotive clear with great results and durability. Granted my 150 doesnt get dirty like my 250 but it hasnt flaked or come off and for the cost you cant beat it. Let it dry 24 hours between coats though.

Its worth a try.
this is the route im thinking for my axles and everything esle besides my frame.....im going to do a rest preventive on that then spray the rusto and gloss on top of that im thinking......

links would be awsome.....i know next to dick about painting....what do i mix it with?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:54 PM
  #22  
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get a gallon of muratic acid and mix it 30/70 with water in a spray bottle. The acid nutralizes the rust and turns into a hard surface. Offically bad a$$.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:55 PM
  #23  
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From: Cocoa, FL
Originally Posted by STGFordCrazy04
get a gallon of muratic acid and mix it 30/70 with water in a spray bottle. The acid nutralizes the rust and turns into a hard surface. Offically bad a$$.
ospho?........
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:59 PM
  #24  
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From: St George, SC I-95
Mix it with Acetone. Its basically paint thinner.

My method:

Scrape crud off
Wash it good.
Let dry
Spray it down with muratic acid cocktail
Let dry
wipe it down with some junk called prep sol
Spray it with the rustoleum
Let dry for 24 hours
and repeat until you have the desired coverage.


I put 3 coats on my frame and ALL the little bolt on suspension crap and only used about 3/4 of a gallon. Joe blow can buy it all day long at like Lowes Home Depot or me for about $35 a gallon. Its too cheap to turn down. When I was doing my truck I bought a 1/2pt of basecoat Black and it was over $40 for PPG.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 04:01 PM
  #25  
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From: St George, SC I-95
Muratic acid is real similar to sulfuric acid.

Muratic is the stuff they clean cement off of bricks and pour in swimming pools to do something with the pH.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 04:10 PM
  #26  
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quadzjr
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From: Cocoa, FL
Originally Posted by STGFordCrazy04
Mix it with Acetone. Its basically paint thinner.

My method:

Scrape crud off
Wash it good.
Let dry
Spray it down with muratic acid cocktail
is this necessary? or would oshpo work in its place?
Let dry
wipe it down with some junk called prep sol
linky poo?
Spray it with the rustoleum
Let dry for 24 hours
and repeat until you have the desired coverage.


I put 3 coats on my frame and ALL the little bolt on suspension crap and only used about 3/4 of a gallon. Joe blow can buy it all day long at like Lowes Home Depot or me for about $35 a gallon. Its too cheap to turn down. When I was doing my truck I bought a 1/2pt of basecoat Black and it was over $40 for PPG.
is it automotive paint? put a link on here so i know im not getting the wrong stuff, im sure there is more than one type....same with clear.....do you thin the clear to right?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 04:10 PM
  #27  
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quadzjr
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From: Cocoa, FL
Originally Posted by STGFordCrazy04
Muratic acid is real similar to sulfuric acid.

Muratic is the stuff they clean cement off of bricks and pour in swimming pools to do something with the pH.
sounds like it be hard to get.....
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 04:15 PM
  #28  
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TN97STROKE
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From: Dickson, Tennessee
Originally Posted by quadzjr
Can you send me a link to the stuff your talking about?

is there any prep work beforehand like spraying down somthing else first or after it? or is it just spray on and your done?
is it spray on or roll on?

Nick
Check out Sherwin Williams Paint Online they make industrial/marine coatings
I used alot of their industrial paint in the welding/machine shop I work in. The can will tell you what to clean up with and that is what we used to thin the paint with so it will spray. No need for high dollar gun just get a cheep spray gun from your local auto parts store...We never precoat with anything just knock off all the crud and rust scale with wire brush and go to spraying. these paints are very tuff and take a good beating.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 04:15 PM
  #29  
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have to say Kris is right!!!! we heard about the acid & water trick so tried on an old pontiac in the back 40

you can get the muriatic at lowes, home depot, harware and last time i bought some it was under $5 a gal.

be careful not to get the acid on cement it will leave a rust-brown stain (im a mason)
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 04:18 PM
  #30  
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i have used the eastwood rust encapsulator a couple of times. I did an entire sand rail frame in it and also the floors, firewall and frame of my buddy's 65 chevelle. one of the biggest thigs with any of the rust encapsulators is that it NEEDS rust to adhere properly. You just brush it on. if you are putting it on a bare metal that you have prepped the rust off of, you also need the etching agent which pretty much makes hte part rust before you paint it. If you put it on clean bare metal, it will chip off easily. If you put it on a rusted part, it looks great and lasts forever!
 
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