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Then I would highly recommend the eastwood stuff. it works great! Try not to get it on your hands because it is hard to get off. And I'd brush it on. On the sand rail, we put it on the frame which had been sitting outside for nearly 20 years, and hten painted over it. I've got some pics on my laptop i can email you some if you want. you really can't tell that this thing had sat outside for 20 years.
Then I would highly recommend the eastwood stuff. it works great! Try not to get it on your hands because it is hard to get off. And I'd brush it on. On the sand rail, we put it on the frame which had been sitting outside for nearly 20 years, and hten painted over it. I've got some pics on my laptop i can email you some if you want. you really can't tell that this thing had sat outside for 20 years.
so on just my frame, clean it up good (nothing loose) use the rust preventative, let dry, spray pro rusto gloss black (mixed 50/50 with paint thinner) (repeat as necessary, allowing 24hr between coats) then clear......right?
do i mix the clear with teh thinner?
then with everything else (axles, subframe, 4linkbars), just clean it up, then repeat with the pro rusto?
Did a little searching, and found what I couldn't remember:
eastwood rust encapsulator
Zero Rust Chassis Saver
among POR-15 and Rust Bullet
A little researching on those might come up to be something you're looking for.
That stuff is the CATS A$$ we use it on our tanker that we use for dust control, it is running through salt all summer, that stuff never comes off. The trick is that the cleaner the surface is the better and as thin of coats as possible (even brushing it on is almost to thick) The more moister that gets on it the harder it gets, so if you get it on you you literally have to peal the skin off if it drys.
I am using the Eastwood rust encapulator on my ranger. 1st, I cleaned the big stuff off the frame with a wire wheel, the I just mixed it 4:1 and brushed it on the frame. It sort of looks like you are painting with chocolate milk, but it drys clear on the bare metal spots and turns black over the rust parts. I did 2 coats, hit it with a zinc rich etching primer, then painted it with a gloss black trator enamel that I got from Tractor Supply. That stuff is hard! This weekend I will probably scuff it and put a couple of coats of clear to make sure it is slick to let the mud slide off.
not sure if you found your answer yet cause im too lazy to read thru everything but muriatic acid is not that hard to get, go to your local pool supply place (you live in FL i know theres gotta be about a dozen pinch a pennies on your way from Cocoa over to UCF) and just pick up a jug of it they should have it there if not they can get it for you, i know we have a jug sittin in the garage thats almost empty, we dont use it much but every once and a while dadll use it on the pool (not sure what he does wit it tho) but you should be able to get it pretty easily, if not i know i can just let me know
I am using the Eastwood rust encapulator on my ranger. 1st, I cleaned the big stuff off the frame with a wire wheel, the I just mixed it 4:1 and brushed it on the frame. It sort of looks like you are painting with chocolate milk, but it drys clear on the bare metal spots and turns black over the rust parts. I did 2 coats, hit it with a zinc rich etching primer, then painted it with a gloss black trator enamel that I got from Tractor Supply. That stuff is hard! This weekend I will probably scuff it and put a couple of coats of clear to make sure it is slick to let the mud slide off.
tell me more about the tractor enamel......do you spray it on? if so what mixture?
and would someone answer the question on if im supposed to mix the clear with the thinner as well?
Automotive clearcoats are going to require the correct reducer, not moneral spirits type thinners. Most can be reduced up to 25%.
You will want to experiment with differnent paints under the clear. You may find that a chemical reaction will cause the paint to wrinkle, so make sure the paints and reducers are compatible.
you send a link to that primer......and if you guys want to send a link to the right gloss black and clear that would be cool two, im know next to nothing about paint......tell me everything i need......what do i mix it with?
On this page,I have used "stops Rust" spray paint, auto primer, clear spray, and hammered spray. All with great results except the clearcoat. It takes some SERIOUS wetsanding to make it smooth. Also, it is flaking off my hood after 4 years outside. I assume that is because of the engine heat.
On this page,I have used "stops Rust" spray paint, auto primer, clear spray, and hammered spray. All with great results except the clearcoat. It takes some SERIOUS wetsanding to make it smooth. Also, it is flaking off my hood after 4 years outside. I assume that is because of the engine heat.