Hi all, I know it says that I am a new member but I can't remember my password and I have a new e-mail address so I can't retrieve the email that tells me my password. Anyway, I just picked up a 1986 E-150 with the 4.9 I6 and 4 speed stick in the floor. This engine has a computer on it but I'm not sure what it controls. The carb is a 1bbl so I assume it doesn't control that. The reason I am asking is because the EGR is shot with a bunch of holes in the tubing from the ex manifold to the EGR itself. I would like to just remove the complete smog setup but not sure if it would run with the comp. What exactly does the computer control anyway? There is also a valve of some kind that is in the Exhaust manifold just under the intake. Can someone tell me what this is? The valve also has alot of play in it and it is causing a leak. I have done a complete tune-up and replaced all vacuum lines and the old girl runs pretty good. I do still have a slight miss at idle which is due to the EGR system, I hope anyway. Oh yeah, the engine has 63K documented original miles but she has been sitting for a few years. So in a nut shell, what would it take to eliminate the computer and emission crap? And for those that are going to ask, I do not have a smog test where I live.

Thanks
Scott

 

Come on guys, help me out!

Thanks
Scott

 

Can you tell if this is a feedback carb or not?

 

Your carb should be a feedback model - the one on my Bronco is a Carter VFA-1V. You can tell if your carb is feedback or not by looking at it - if there are wires coming from it other than your choke solenoid, it's a feedback model. Mine has an early type throttle position sensor near the bottom on the front facing side and feedback solenoid on the passenger side on the rear of the carb. Your computer does have some control over the carb, but not much. I wouldn't suggest taking off your emissions devices if you plan on keeping your 1 bbl for now - your EGR keeps detonation to a minimum, and really doesn't hurt anything.

On my truck, I found that you can gain a little power (not much, but just enough to feel in the seat of your pants) by disconnecting the feedback solenoid on your 1 bbl. When I got my Bronco 2 years ago, it had 46,000 original miles and had been sitting for 10 years and had a little bit of a rough idle like you're experiencing, but is better since disconnecting the feedback, and runs real smooth when it's nice and warm. By disconnecting your feedback, you will be making your carb run a little bit fatter than with feedback connected.

In the future, I plan to add a progressive linkage 2 bbl, intake and header to my 300, but I'm liking the mileage I get from the 1 bbl and 3.08 gears right now!

 

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure if the carb is a feedback model or not but I will definately find out tomorrow. The idle is a little rough only after it warms up but she runs smooth when cold, I assume that is because of the choke which makes me think that disconnecting the feedback cable will help alot. I did however find out that the distributor houses the electronics on it instead of a seperate box on the fender like I am use to. I also have a question about the amount of oil to put in this motor. When I changed the oil and filter the dipstick still shows about a quart low after 5 quarts. I'm not sure if the dipstick is the correct one or not so I am hesitant to add the 6th quart. I did pull the numbers off the dipstick and I am going to call my buddy at the Ford store tomorrow to see whats up. I sure do miss my '84 300 I6 which had no engine control whatsoever which made it much easier to work on.

Thanks
Scott

 

Removing and/or failing to keep all systems in proper working order including the smog "crap" is half-assed re-engineering and the results will usually be not good. Best to restore what you have to original or back up to pre-feedback systems including carb, DSII recurved dizzy, ignition box, etc.

 

this makes sense. I have a 1986 300 in my '79 bronco. I removed all the smog "crap" , going with the DSII ignition, and pre egr spacer and carter 1bbl carb, manual choke. Basically I re-yeared the 300 into a 1976ish vintage. The valve in your exhaust is a preheat valve designed to keep the heat in to bring the carb up to temp quickly. It is thermostatically controlled and shouldn't cause any miss, unless it is stuck closed. My .02

 

Ok guys, my carb is not a feedback model. I do however have 2 connectors that aren't connected to anything in the area of the carb. One of the connectors is a 4 pin square and the other is a 3 pin round. I'm not sure if I have the original carb or if someone installed a non feedback version. Seeing that this is a non feedback version then the only thing I need to do is
change out the distributor and install the Duraspark ignition, correct?

Scott

 

i dont know about the duraspark system but my 90 I6 holds about 5 3/4 quarts with filter change and it shows low if thers not at least 5.5 quarts in it i was curios abou that computer wev got an 84 e150 with a 302 and its got an 2 barrel with an ignition control module under the distributor and another mounted on the fire wall next to where the interior engine cover is i dont know what that does though

 

Those connectors are for the IAS and TPS on your feedback carb. Look under the dash between the steering column and tranny hump and you'll find your ECU. From the ECU is a bundle of wiring that passes through the firewall into the engine bay.

If you're going to change it to the Duraspark II you might as well yank all the wiring, hoses, solenoids, etc. associated with the ECU. You can still run the EGR and AIR pump, although none of the AIR valves will function.