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I just got a very cheap old Craftsman lawn tractor with a 12hp Tecumseh engine, and it needs work. It wouldn't crank fast enough to start, even running cables straight to the starter from my truck battery. With the plug out, it cranked a little under normal speed, but engine turned freely, so I tore into the starter. One of the magnets had come loose and was fouling the armature. A replacement starter is between $60 and $120, so I can't really justify that. The bad part is that this engine has no provision for a manual start.
Is there a way I could add a pull start to a 12hp Tecumseh OHV engine that didn't have one to begin with? Option two is to rig a pull start using the guts of the electric starter.
I just got a very cheap old Craftsman lawn tractor with a 12hp Tecumseh engine, and it needs work. It wouldn't crank fast enough to start, even running cables straight to the starter from my truck battery. With the plug out, it cranked a little under normal speed, but engine turned freely, so I tore into the starter. One of the magnets had come loose and was fouling the armature. A replacement starter is between $60 and $120, so I can't really justify that. The bad part is that this engine has no provision for a manual start.
Is there a way I could add a pull start to a 12hp Tecumseh OHV engine that didn't have one to begin with? Option two is to rig a pull start using the guts of the electric starter.
There might be away but all the parts you would need would cost as much as the starter as the rewind unit that was used on Tecumseh large frame engine was very costly the last time I checked.
Does your blower housing(flywheel cover) have holes in a circle around the screen where a rewind unit can bolt to.
Have you checked Ebay for a used starter?
One thing I can warn you of is with that engine the decompression mechanism on the cam fails and gives the engine to much compression when cranking and causes the failure of the starter from heat so it is possible that there could be more then a starter issue with your engine.
Use a power drill on the flywheel bolt just make sure your drill can handle the torque
or you may be out a drill after a while!! Or chuck the armature and or gear into a 1/2
in drill if you can get to it and have enough room. Of course a couple nuts and bolts
through the vent holes to wind a rope onto will also work.
I couldn't find anything used, wound up just kinda taking it and spending $60 on a starter with shipping.
A bit more research found I would have to drill and tap the flywheel to mount the starter cup.
Decompressor seems to work ok, looks like someone might have smacked the starter.
One thing I can warn you of is with that engine the decompression mechanism on the cam fails and gives the engine to much compression when cranking and causes the failure of the starter from heat so it is possible that there could be more then a starter issue with your engine.
No, I won't listen to the small engine mechanic!
The starter was needed, it spins over a bit faster now, but still pauses up near TDC so it won't spark with the plug in. Plug out, and the thing just flies around and makes tons of spark.
Is there a way to fix the decompressor?
Been there done that LOL yes you will have to pull the motor and replace the cam,more of a pain then anything I think the cam sells for around $30 and a new base gasket I would also check valve clearance when done to see if it is still within specs.
When I was doing this for a living most of my customers would not fix it because of the labor charges but I have done a few and for what ever reason they have lasted longer then then the first cam did.
On edit I see that this is a over head valve motor and if the valve clearance is off it can act like a decompression failure if you need the specs let me know I just found and put my manuals up.
I might need the model number that starts with 917.
It's a Craftsman, the model number starts with a 143, I'll have to go out and find the number again since I seem to have lost the paper it was written on.
So replacing the cam will fix the decompressor? Is this another case of splash lube sucking, or was this a poor design to begin with?
I have to wonder if one of my spare Ford starters could be made to fit this thing, give it enough kick to get around the whole issue of the decompressor.
Not meaning to hijack this thread,But have to tell this story because it relates to law mowers and crank ropes.
A preacher was walking down the street one day when he came upon a young man with a mower for sale.He asked the young man if the mower started good and he replied it started and ran well.Satisified the preacher purchased the mower.
A few days later the young man happened upon the preacher .he was vigriously trying to start the mower.Upon seeing the young man the preacher stated,,I thought you said this thing started good.The young man replied it does,you just have to cuss it.The preacher replied ,,I cant, Since I became a preacher I forgot how to cuss....The young man replied ,,,Just keep jerking that rope long enough and it will come back to you.
It's a Craftsman, the model number starts with a 143, I'll have to go out and find the number again since I seem to have lost the paper it was written on.
So replacing the cam will fix the decompressor? Is this another case of splash lube sucking, or was this a poor design to begin with?
I have to wonder if one of my spare Ford starters could be made to fit this thing, give it enough kick to get around the whole issue of the decompressor.
Yes 143. I was thinking(or not) about the tractor model# not the motor.
I really never checked in to the cause of failure but don't think it is a lack of oil problem as most Techumsehs have a oil pump.
I think it is more of a valve train issue or lack of maintance.
Ok, tractor number is 917.254241. I had the valve cover off once, and it didn't look bad, everything was moving like it should. I figure I should be able to just spin the pushrods on the cam base circle, or should there be some tension on them still?
To test the decompresser, take the sparkplug out, rotate the engine until the the intake valve closes. Then rotate the flywheel very slowly on the compression stroke, the exhaust (or intake valve) should briefly open a tiny bit, for a very short amount of time. If the decompresser is on the intake valve, the intake valve may just stay open longer then normal, so it would be hard to tell.
Anyways, so you got a new starter and it still cranks over slow? The thing I can think of is to turn the engine just past top dead center on the compression stroke, so it would be on the power stroke. Hopefully that will let it get enough momentum to keep the motor turning.
Tried that, it gets around to TDC compression and nearly stops, goes around two turns and does the same again. I know the starter was bad because I opened it up. One of the magnets was broken and came out in a few pieces that had been rubbing the armature. The thing actually spun the engine over faster on three magnets than with the fourth broken one.
I don't know if the decompressor is on the exhaust or intake, I was under the impression it was the exhaust.
I think the problem is the starter, the de compressor is probably working fine.
If it is a manual transmission, you could always find a big hill and pop the clutch
Well, got her fired up tonight. The valve lash was beyond being measured in the thousandths. More like about 1/16". This thing runs pretty strong for a single, and aside from the half quart of oil I dumped out the valve cover on the exhaust, it doesn't seem to actually burn any oil.
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