best welder for doing body work

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Old 03-23-2008, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MBDiagMan
I'm glad you told me that .030 is too thick for sheet metal. I have welded in probably a couple of dozen patch panels with .030 and have had no problems whatsoever. Maybe you need to do a little more experimenting in setting up your welder.
I didn't say you cant use it, I just said it was too thick. I have 2 AB shops and none of my 11 techs will use .30 and none of the techs that I have had over the past 8 years use .30. ALL of them use .23. They all claim that it is better because it does not get as HOT and is smoother and requires less grinding.

Personally I can use .30 or .23 and I keep the .30 in my welder because I tend to weld heavier steel for my projects.

No reason to get snotty or take it personal. JMO
 
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Old 03-23-2008, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by GwizRC
The Miller 135 is ok but I would recomend the 180 (more verastile for thicker jobs). .23 for Body is much cleaner and easier to use. .30 is too thick for sheet metal.

When welding sheet metal, don't let it get hot! use a wet rag on the area arround the weld to keep it from warping.


Okay, since your'e calling me "snotty," I'll get snotty. You're right, .30 or even .23 would be too large for sheet metal. Almost a 1/3 of an inch or almost 1/4 of an inch diameter wire would indeed be quite a bit too large. Maybe you should examine your mathematics. I was referring to .030.

Not only that but you stated ".30 is too thick for sheet metal." You didn't say that it would work, or that you even use it, you implied that it just flat won't work.

BTW. You should not have to use a wet rag around the welds to keep it cool enough. You simply bounce around, to allow heat to dissipate at each weld.

It is very easy to misunderstand the written word. When reading someones writing, you see no body language, or hear no tone of voice. If I came across "SNOTTY" I apologize. It might be easier to just stand corrected and move on.
 
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Old 03-23-2008, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MBDiagMan
Okay, since your'e calling me "snotty," I'll get snotty. You're right, .30 or even .23 would be too large for sheet metal. Almost a 1/3 of an inch or almost 1/4 of an inch diameter wire would indeed be quite a bit too large. Maybe you should examine your mathematics. I was referring to .030.

Not only that but you stated ".30 is too thick for sheet metal." You didn't say that it would work, or that you even use it, you implied that it just flat won't work.

BTW. You should not have to use a wet rag around the welds to keep it cool enough. You simply bounce around, to allow heat to dissipate at each weld.

It is very easy to misunderstand the written word. When reading someones writing, you see no body language, or hear no tone of voice. If I came across "SNOTTY" I apologize. It might be easier to just stand corrected and move on.
Even a small spot weld can warp the thin sheet metal on todays cars. For example, when replacing the outer skin on a bed side and you have to weld the lip of the wheel opening. It is very easy to warp the out side area of the bed side. We just replaced one last week that was done with too much heat, the owner of the truck didn't comment about it and it was in our shop for a new accident but we noticed the poor workmanship right away.

You are correct about my miss typing the wire size. But I still say that .030 is TOO thick for sheetmetal. I use it out of laziness because I only weld sheet metal 10-15% of the time. I think that if you were to set up your welder correctly with both .030 and .023 and test weld two peices of sheet metal together, you will find that the .023 gives you a better outcome with less heat and less grinding.

After "examining my mathematics", I found that I am not retentive enough to notice the typo and know that most people will know what I meant. I will "stand corrected" and move on to a less snotty post.
 
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