Just wondering what the best paint is. From what i know there are 4 types.

<TABLE id=ChipImage_rblPaintType border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><LABEL for=ChipImage_rblPaintType_0>Acrylic Enamel </LABEL></TD></TR><TR><TD><LABEL for=ChipImage_rblPaintType_1>Acrylic Urethane </LABEL></TD></TR><TR><TD><LABEL for=ChipImage_rblPaintType_2>Acrylic Lacquer </LABEL></TD></TR><TR><TD><LABEL for=ChipImage_rblPaintType_3>Urethane Basecoat </LABEL>

<LABEL for=ChipImage_rblPaintType_3>I'd like the overall opinion of the different types if you guys would be so kind. My interests are really the best finished product, most durable, easiest to use and cleanup and best all around. Cost is important but i can justify the cost of the paint with the wife since i'm only painting my own truck hopefully once. </LABEL>
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<LABEL for=ChipImage_rblPaintType_3>I'm going to bc/cc eventually.. I really am not even close to this stage in the game but i'm interested in it as i wait for sheet metal... Thanks for any replies. I'm not even considering water based, from what i have read it is crap-o.</LABEL>
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<LABEL for=ChipImage_rblPaintType_3>Duke</LABEL>
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Acrylic Enamel is a 1 coat system that is the most cost effective, you spray 2 coats. This is easy to spray and will give you good service.

The Acrylic Urethane is the best paint, normally a 2-3 coat system. This is also the most costly too. Expect to spend $800+ if you elect to go that way.

Best primmer is Epoxy type, followed with 2K (cat) primmer.

 

urethane/ polyurethanes system would be the best, and one with a clear would get my vote for best, cause of easier repairability and the uv inhibitors clear has.
In order of longevity and durability on a car that sees the environment I would say
worst to best at least in terms of durability and longevity.

Acrylic lacquer- fast drying and can polish up as good or better then any paint, but takes a lot of coats to cover and won't stand up well to the elements or chemicals, least durable on the list, and often checking occurs in time. Lacquer products also shrink a lot. Should not be used over enamel or urethanes. Also due to the low solids and the voc, ie how much solvent in the system, not environmental friendly and big part of why they were phazed out of bodyshops. Lacquers need to be buffed out to get a good gloss and metallics/pearls cleared to allow buffing.
synthetic enamel
acrylic enamel
Acrylic enamel with hardener added.
Enamels are a Slower curing system. Could mean recoat problems if repainted. An unactivated enamel will take years to harden all the way through. Basically used car specials, one day body, and implement paint in todays paint world. Specially considering an activated urethane system, many lower lines aren't much additional cost and even a low line of urethane should be a better system then enamel. Don't get me wrong, I don't hate ae, I sprayed a few centaril jobs in the 80's and early 90's, but urethanes are a better system. Centari had what was known is the ultra performance pack hardener I used on my moms car back in tech school, and that came out looking pretty nice. Enamels normally can cover a courser final sanding grit then others.

acrylic urethane
acrylic polyurethane.
About the only minus of the urethanes and polyurethanes I've heard, is some purist don't like the look cause its not whats original to cars from before the 80's, and a few think they look too plasticy. And like all 2k products, the added chemical dangers if your body is exposed to them. Unlike enamel, urethanes must be activated to cure. Also being higher solids, spray with some natural peel, often called urethane peel that can be somewhat difficult to completely eliminate. Urethane peel, in the right light and angle looks a little like waves in the bodywork. On show cars they often do what is called a flow coat.

Not all basecoats are equal either. Some lines have pee poor coverage in many colors, and you have gotten one even ground color to avoid blowing a lot of color over different colored primer spots to get coverage where you no longer see that spot through the base. There are some cheaper lines that are an enamel mixing system that is converted for use also is a base. This will be a slower drying system with not as good repairability, and you better give enough time between coats and let sit a good while before clearing. Best if you have the time would be to allow the base to sit overnight and clear it the next day. Omni I believe is an enamel base
Then there are faster polyester bases such as chromabase, and also urethane bases.
Its best to activate your base for durability. If you look at many manufacturers paint systems, to get the lifetime warrenty, the shop needs to activate the base.
If it doesn't call for an activator, or doesn't have to have an activator, you can usually add a few ounces of your clear hardener to a mixed quart of base. About a capfull of the hardener cap. If it is a system such as chromabase that uses an activator/reducer such as basemaker, or ppgs reactive reducer, it would be best to use that systems reducer activator. Otherwise if its normal base, can use any brand of good grade reducer and your clears activator. You should never use a lower grade reducer in a better base line, but okay to use a better lines. It would not be okay to use omni reducer in dbc, but you could use the dbc reducer in omni for example.