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Here is a virgin sample of the Lucas oil additive I sent in to be analyzed. I know the advertisements state what a great product it is:
"Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer is the number one heavy duty and high performance oil supplement in the US. It eliminates dry starts and resists thermal breakdown for total protection in new engines. It stops smoking, knocking, and oil consumption in worn engines. It raises oil pressure and adds lubricity for more miles per gallon (M.P.G.).
In addition, it lowers oil temperatures and stops leaks. It also extends oil life by at least 50%. Use it in any manual transmission or differential to stop wear, leaks, heat, noise & hard shifting. Using Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer will not void new car warranties. Since it is pure petroleum, it safely blends with all petroleum products, even synthetics."
well, here is the oil analysis results, looks like all it is is a huge viscosity increaser, heavier than a 250 SAE grade gear oil. The viscosity CST on a 40 Weight oil (the oil recommended for the 7.3L) ranges from 12.5-16.5 and Lucas came in at over 124. So looking at this analysis all it is doing is increasing the viscosity of the oil and barely containing any additives.
I was expecting to see some additives, can't believe how thick the viscosity is on this stuff - looks like a quart would easily turn the oil on a PSD into a 50 weight or even higher since the recommended application is 1 qt Lucas to 1 gallon of engine oil.
Go read this page (I believe this is the same stuff you did the test on, Rich) if you really want to avoid Lucas Oil Stabilizer (be sure to read to the end of the page where it is added to Schaeffers and Delo)!
Was curious what others thought of Lucas Oil, so I did a search and came up with this thread. It's not too old, so I'll throw my input here as well.
I had been considering Lucas Oil for quite a while as those nifty little "toy" looking things they have sitting on the counter of most auto parts stores (the ones with the gears you can spin, one with and one without the additive) looked like it made sense why it would work. So, last time I did an oil change I figured I'd try it in my '81 300.
Here's my analysis:
First off, I did the oil change when it was about 25 degrees out so it was below freezing. The stuff seriously looked like a mixture of honey and snot when I tried to pour it from the bottle. It honestly took me about 20 minutes to get it all out. (The bottle had been in the truck so it was technically "frozen".) I had to squeeze it out of the bottle, and then wait for it to slowly slide down the oil fill hole into the engine before I could add more. That kinda concerned me considering it was so thick but I figured that maybe it was heat sensitive and got really thin when under normal operating temperatures.
When I fired it up, the engine did run glass smooth, which I was really pleased with. However, after several test drives, it seriously feels like I have the parking brake on. The stuff is so incredibly thick, I can't even imagine what kind of drag it puts on my engine. The performance dropped through the bottom and my gas mileage suffered a lot because of this.
Not only that, but it still has the same dry starts it did before I added it. There is the second or two when starting it that the engine clunks from no oil pressure and essentially metal on metal.
Additive compatibility is reason enough to not use those products. Every brand of oil has its own proprietary mix of scientifically compounded additives, so why compromise them with an unknown additive package? If you think you need more additives, or a boost in TBN's, just change the filter and add a few quarts of fresh oil. Most people hesitate to add different brands of 15W-40 to the crank case, so why they would dump in extra additives remains a mystery to me.
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