[updated:LAST EDITED ON 31-Dec-01 AT 03:22 AM (EST)] shazam - thanks for the post - i am totally freakin' AMAZED!

i am new here - i registered SPECIFICALLY for the purpose of getting advice on the rpm limit for a 400 bottom end - talk about good timing! i usually hang on the mustang forums (westsidemustangs.com & corral.net) but my new project is a 400 and not many people there know much about anything but 302's and the occasional 351W.

in short, my plan is to build a 400 with 351C 4v heads & roller cam. the block & rods are '77 351M (thanks bill, i'll check casting #!)& i have 2 junkyard cranks to choose from. heads are junkyard d1ae's i've had almost 20 years. already have hooker super comp headers, exhaust "finger" plates & 351C->400 intake adapter plates. considering funnel web intake & intake port "tongue" fillers. this is to replace the 351W in my '75 ranchero that hasn't run in over 10 years. tranny will most likely be a c6, but i'm open to suggestions for an OD tranny. i'm sure i'll have all kinds of questions about all kinds of things. there are so many different forum categories here!

anyway, i've been told that my idea won't work because the 4v heads are no good, or would have no bottom end and then by the time the revs get up enough to make them flow, the bottom end would destruct. looks like a few of you would disagree! just glad i've found a good place to get some answers to these questions!

oh - the spacing between main caps is the same, but i don't know about distance between studs on the same cap. maybe the holes could be slotted if needed? seems like the longer throws would be more likely to be a problem.

BTW - the fact that nobody has thought it >necessary< to make a girdle is encouraging!

 

Well blu93gt if you thought my 426 400 was bad look at this years build 435 400.

I started with a good 400 Block and had the machine shop go through it
to make sure it's sound. Then fill the block with hard block to just below
the water pump outlet. Then line bore the mains, Install oil restrictor in
the block, Bore the block to .060 over and deck the block to 10.275 height,
That will give me a Zero deck height when I put it together with my
rotating assembly.
My rotating Assembly is a Drop forged steel crank from Scat that was
finished off by Paul's Crank shop out of Texas. Paul off ground it to 4.200
stroke with the journals ending up at 2.200 BBC. My rods are Eagle ESP
Rods 6.800 BBC, They have to be clearanced .050 to fit the Ford crank
journal, The Pistons are special order JE piston with 14.5 Comp. .990 pin.
and the dome to fit the Cleveland head Style, the piston's edges are
chamfered and the tops are hand massaged to relief any sharp edges and a
flame path is machined in the dome to aid in the combustion. Eveything is
checked for clearance Piston to valve clearance is Close, Intake .080
Exe..110 Without head gasket, add .035 for the head gasket and you have
lots of room. I run a Fluidampr out front and a SFI specs. Steel Flywheel
with a McLeod double disk Slipper Clutch in back.
I have two cam choices I run, One is a Crower 15481 which will give
this motor 788 H.P. 658# T.Q. And Engle RJ-38 Which gives me 799 H.P.
667# T.Q. Both cams are Rollers as is the whole valve train Assembly. All
the good stuff Crower Rocker, Comp Cam Roller Lifter, and
Comp Springs. To top this off I have Jarmar Stud Girdle to help keep
things straight up here.
To help with the oiling problem that's been associated with this motor I
prep my main bearings a little by marking where the oil holes are and then
using a drimmel tool and grind the bearing to match the oil holes in the
block. I try to keep the restrictions to where we need them and let as much
oil get to the mains as possible.
And to top the bottom end off I've made a stud girdle for it using one
from 351W and filling in the holes that are 4-1/8" apart and redrilling
them to the 351M/400 4-7/16" spacing.
To help with the oiling I have a 4 Stage Dry Sump system and
4 Gal. oil tank so I know I'll never run out of oil. I pull oil out of the pan
on 2 lines and out of both valve covers.
On top is a set of Boss 351C 4V heads with High port plates added and
alot of porting work done to them by Price Motorsports out of Indiana,
These Puppies really flow Big time.
Most everyone say these 4V heads are no good for low end TQ.
I'll tell you this I come off the line at 4500 rpm's Get everything moving
and at the point of no return,
I run it WFO to the end of the track. Low end TQ not a problem with my set-up.
On top of the heads I have a Jack Roush SVO Nascar intake I picked up
off of Ebay. It supposedly will fit 351W or 351C I had to have the runners
milled .350 to get it close and then I had to have the Adapter plates on the
heads milled .300 to get everything to line up.
This intake is as close to a Tunnel Ram as you can get and still call it a
High Rise Intake.To finish this off I have a 850 DP Holley with a little
work done to it by Woodruff Carbs. on top Flows close to 1050 cfm.
On the back side I have a set of Headers I built myself, Cuz You can't
buy none for this set-up. 2" Primary 3" Collector Custom fit Wheelwell
Exit headers and Crankcase Evac system.
I use the FoMoCo Dist. with a little tweaking done to it. I have a
extention from Price Motorsports added to it so it won't hit the intake, and
MSD6AL Box and Blaster Coil And a really good set of plug wires.
Well that's my set-up what do you think.

 

I just finished reading your extensive description of your engine----what a setup you have got----And I'm worried about my lil'ole 400---Why don't you do the picture thing--and let us see what a $25,000 motor looks like , just aguess on my part , In round figures what does an engine like that cost, if its any of Our business --probably not---but i just had to ask!!!!!!!!!!!!!thanks , fd:-X12

 

Ok I’ve had a few people who want to know just how much this motor
cost and what all have I done to get all this power out of a 400, So here’s
my shopping list of things I needed to make this motor.

400 Block Cheap I have a 5 on hand. $50.00
Block filler From Jeg’s 4 bottle’s $42.99
Machine shop charges for Block & Head Work
Magnafluxing Block ,Hot tank
Line boring mains,
Bore block to .060 over
Deck Block .022
Install Cam bearings
New Freeze Plug Kit
Balance Rotaing Assembly
Reworked Heads Valve Job,
Brass Guide’s Seals $1530.00
Steel Forged Crank From Scat. $1850.00
Eagle ESP Rods BBC 6.800 $579.99
JE Piston 14.5 to 1 comp. Set of 8 $895.99
Boss 351 4V heads with High Port plates
With port work from Price Motorsports Aready done $1000.00
Here’s a few things I got off of EBay that saved me a little cash.
Catalog Price Ebay Price
Engle RJ-38 Roller Cam $259.99 $180.05
Crane Roller lifters $354.99 $178.75
Roller Rockers $207.99 $149.50
Jomar Stud Girdles $239.99 $224.68
FMS Crome Valve Covers $125.99 $100.60
Barnes 4Stage Dry Sump $500.00 $346.54
4.5 Gal. Dry Sump Tank $500.00 $356.50
Roush SVO Intake $297.99 $277.50
Main stud Girdle 351W $250.99 $117.45
$2737.93 $1859.52
Savings $845.81
Holley 850 DP reworked to flow 1050 cfm $450.00
Dry Sump Oil Pan from Armando Oil Pan’s $250.00
Felpro Gasket Set
Head $27.99 4V intake $16.99
Oil Pan set $11.99
Timing Cover $2.59
Timing cover seal $3.95
Water Pump Gasket $3.50
Aluminum Water Pump $99.99
Weiand Intake Adapter plates $129.99
APR Head Studs $106.99
APR Main Studs $45.99
28 oz SFI Fluidampr $349.99
28 oz. SFI Steel Flywheel (Mcleod) $350.00
Distirbutor Extention (Price Motorsports) $100.99
Grand Total $9759.35
And I still have to hose the dry sump system.
Hose and AN fitting $1000.00
$10759.35
I do my own engine assembly Free ;-)
And check and double check all clearances
check and double check all torque settings

Oh an by the way if I was to detune this motor to 9.5 to 1 Comp. Slap some mufflers on it and put a smaller carb. on for the street this motor will still put out over 540 hp @ 6200 rmp’s.

Now you know why I call my pulltruck ShaZam

 

I need to wake up my 77 f250 4x4 california smog laden motor. 400 ci. it still has the smog pump cat. converter and the rest of the smog related styff on it . Not looking for high hp motor ,just perk it up a bit ?

 

If you still live in California, nothing you can do...they have you by your cojones!

If you are outside California, trash the emissions system, install a straight-up timing set. That should wake up the truck somewhat.