8 Cylinder Breakerless Distributor ~ 1974/79.

D = ILLUSTRATION SECTION 120 / PAGE 3 / Basic Part Number 12A112

 

That 8 point circular part is what Ford calls an armature: D3AZ-12A099-A.

Take a gander at the breakerless pic ref I posted above.

 

Okay thanks.

I was sure the stator was the part that tripped the circuit.

Good night now

 

I was wondering why you didn't want to say earlier what you did in there.

More importantly, how's she sound now?

 

Thanks for the understanding. I was really worried about irritating you folks. It sounds and runs better than ever. Thanks again. I hope I will be able to offer some assistance to the members in the future.

 

Make sure that the plastic connector to your distributor is not cracked. I had one with a crack in it and it would start and then not start. It would make connection and then lose it because of the crack.

 

OK, This and the post immediately above describes what I need to correct on my 1978 Club Wagon, 351W. But I already tried rotating the rotor around 180 and reinstalling the distributor. The thing still points a few degrees PAST the armature-stator alignment. Indeed, as the Duraspark is built, the notch on the shaft for indexing the rotor does place it in between vanes on the armature.

What am I still doing wrong? I still cannot get the rotor and the armature-stator to both align when the crank is at TDC (yes, I know how to find TDC)

thanks

 

OK, This and the post immediately above it (page 4) describes the conclusion I have come to after struggling through much of this author's experiences. Trying to correct timing issue on my 1978 Club Wagon, 351W. But I already tried rotating the rotor around 180 and reinstalling the distributor. The rotor still points a few degrees PAST the armature-stator alignment. Indeed, as the Duraspark is built, the notch on the shaft for indexing the rotor does place it in between vanes on the armature. Sooooo,

What am I still doing wrong? I still cannot get the rotor and the armature-stator to both align when the crank is at TDC (yes, I know how to find TDC)

If I do reinstall the distributor with the rotor 180 degrees around, am I going to discover that all three will now align so the armature/stator fires while the rotor is still on, not past/nearly past #1 post? (I'll go out and try it again, but I didn't get it right yet) Indeed, it is acting like it is firing "late"

thanks

Symptoms:

Now: backfiring out 2150 carb and exhaust, depending how much I fool with the distributor body position, won't start, or runs terribly and stalls quickly. Dry, sooty spark plugs.

Also, weirdly: When engine did run for short periods, got a noticeable buzzing from the C6 transmission? As long as the sound lasted, the engine ran (poorly). Soon as the buzzing stopped, the engine quit. If I disconnect the vac line to the C6, the buzzing stops, but engine still starts/runs like crap. (What's this?)

When it broke down: Was working great, then would not accept throttle at highway speed, Stalled, restarted, eventually would not start. Had spark, was getting fuel. Replaced module. got better spark, engine just cranked without starting. Tow guy said he hears valve popping through the carb and this means timing chain jumped a tooth. At 70K miles, it was at its streth limit spec, but the gears were still aligned properly. Replaced timing chain set (got the dots right at 6 o'clock and 12 noon). No better, well, it doesn't pop through the carb, at least.

Pulled valve cover and verified 1) #1 valves are closed at TDC, and 2) all valves move in time, so, camshaft isn't broken

During tear down, found stator broken. "Ah-Ha!" Replaced with recuilt distributor (Cardone) No luck.

Check all wiring, tested new module at each harness connector, etc. New AC Delco coil 9old one tested fine, anyhow). New fuel pump. Checked fuel system = OK.

New damper (Note: mistakenly bought and installed a harmonic balancer for the 351M, so its timing marks are way late than OE. for the 351W, But I did make my own marks on it at TDC, plus I have a dial-in timing light)

Rebuilt & adjusted the carb (created some seepage out the throttle shaft, both sides, but too little I think to perpetuate same symptoms)

Painted the crank pulley (Say, how can I now get it to align the belts, since the balancer for the 351M is 1/2 inch shorter in the pulley mount than the original?)

Checked all vac hoses, neutral safety switch, tightened intake manifold bolts, bought a bigger easy-up canopy, drank not enough beer, annoyed my neighbors, bewildered a former truck tech, was late for work twice this week for not getting to sleep on time.....