auto parts stores have machines to test the modules for free.

The DSII & DSIII module test was in my other post of you wish to do it yourself.

I would clip a voltmeter on the coil to watch for power fluctuation during cranking.

Also check your small wires where the dizzy plugs into the harness.

 

I believe in your summary post (4 posts earlier) you indicate that you have already tried another ignition module and ignition switch.

I think its firing at the wrong time. I don't know if an ignition box could cause that.

My most curious thought is why is it throwing a spark when you turn the key to the Run position and not when you turn the key to the Off position. I could think a bad ignition switch coulod cause that, but you have already tried another ignition switch.

 

I bet you have the distributor 180 degrees out.

 

I swapped the coils and ignition modules between the F100 and the F350. The F350 works well. The F100 is still doing the same thing. I pulled the harness off, untaped it, cleaned it, tested the resistance of each wire, retaped it and installed. There is still a charge when the key is turned to the on/run position??? and a charge when the key is turned off. I also set the F350 to tdc and checked the alignment of the rotor in reference to the #1 dizzy cap tower and I have the F100 set up the same way. If a distributor is put in one tooth off, can this be compentated in turning the dizzy or maybe relocating the plug wires clockwise/counterclock wise on the dizzy cap?

 

what colour are the grommets on those IM's ?

One tooth can usually be compensated by turning the dist.
2 teeth or more takes plug position

360 degrees by how many teeth.. 12 ?

1 tooth ...that's 30 * off

 

If the coil and ignition box works on the F350 they must be good items.
I don't think it should do that. Where do you see the spark?
That seems correct to me and agrees with the Ford Shop Manual.
M-a-y-b-e. Depends if there is enough room to swing the dizzy around far enough. But set the crank to 10* BTDC. Then pop off the rotor and see if a stator tooth is dead center to the ignition pickup module. (That is when the ignition box fires the coil). Then see if the rotor lines up with the #1 cap tower. If you rotate the dizzy to get the rotor to line up with the number one plug wire you may be moving the stator wheel out of firing position. If that is the case, when the coil does fires the spark will go to which ever cap tower is nearest the rotor. Could be a cylinder with the exhaust valve open or the intake valve open.

And just to cover Bullitt390's point, when you rotate the crank up to 10* BTDC, take the #1 plug out and verify that it is on the compression stroke (you'll feel the compressed air rushing out of the hole). If the air isn't forcefully exiting the hole, go around another revolution. Then check the position of the stator tooth and the rotor position with respect to cap tower #1. (BTW, the shop manual shows that if the stator is off just 1/2 of the width of the tooth with respect to the center of the Pickup module, that equates to 7.75 degrees at the crankshaft.)

 

You can also see the top of the piston shining a flashlight in the SP hole in case you don't want to use your finger

 

Just want to be sure he's coming up on the compression stroke and not on the exhaust stroke.

 

Yes, I mentioned that in post #9.

 

It's backfiring out of the carb and popping out the exhaust... distributor is installed wrong... been there, done that, even when I thought I had it right.

I would go a step further and just pop the passenger valve cover and watch the rockers and when they both stay closed and the balancer is coming up to TDC, you will finally have TDC of the compression. Restabbed the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1.

Either that, or possibly the stator was re-installed incorrectly. If that is possible, never had mine off.

Josh

 

Okay guys,
I feel like a real idiot. I also have this problem posted on another site and have come to a conclusion that I should have caught quite a few post's ago. Bottom line is the dizzy is out 180*. Anyone who has posted trying to help me can feel free to let me have it. On the other post the guy worded his reply in a way that made me realize what I had done. I was sure that the dizzy could not be out 180* because I never pulled it. I did not think about the fact that when I turned the mechanical advance 180* it changed the dizzy 180*...I know I should have known that. Now in my defense I am going to tell you guys the same thing I told the other guys. I just lost my job of 14 years, I had to put my 9 year old dog down and I am going to have to put my 3 year old dog down and to top it all off, my neighbor turned me in to the county for having to many vehicles in my yard so I have been trying to get them out of here to avoid the possible $1000 a day penalty. So my head is a little messed up right now. Either way I feel like a real idiot and I aplogize to all that have helped, especially pdqford. Sir i want to apologize to you personally. I know this forum is to help fellow Ford people but you have gone above and beyond. mil1ion, a special thanks to you as well. Now I am going to bury my head in the sand for awhile.

 

I'm sure I can speak for everyone that we've all been there at one point or another. Dancing around the problem right in front of us.
When in doubt, go back and check the basics.

Jason

 

How can the stator be installed incorrectly ?

It is part of the dist shaft

 

Stator aka Pick Up Coil

There's only ONE used for all the V8's, cars & trucks 1974/79.

D4PZ-12A112-A (Motorcraft DU-1-A)

Dennis: It's a separate part, it does not come as part of the dizzy shaft.

 

I thought the stator is the metal 8 vaned piece


1ford1.

You aren't the first and you certainly won't be the last for this to happen to.
Don't beat yourself up over it.

Like the farmer always says: "Manure Happens"

The thing about some FTE people is we stand by people until the problem is solved.

Zoom Zoom Zoom !