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If lubrication is what you are looking for, biodiesel at 2% or greater has been found to offer the highest lubrication characteristics (I have the study if you are interested). That said, I would be more concerned about the oil forming deposits in and around the injectors...remember the cheap NEW motor oil you would be adding was never distilled and formulated to burn. Also, say the motor oil costs $1 per quart with a 40 gallon tank. It would then be 2.5 cents more expensive per gallon for your fuel mix and I bet where you are located you can find biodiesel as cheap or cheaper than straight-run diesel #2.
I do have a gallon of that from when I had my outboard. Biodiesel very scarce in West River South Dakota. I would like to find or form a CO-OP and make my own.
If lubrication is what you are looking for, biodiesel at 2% or greater has been found to offer the highest lubrication characteristics (I have the study if you are interested). That said, I would be more concerned about the oil forming deposits in and around the injectors...remember the cheap NEW motor oil you would be adding was never distilled and formulated to burn. Also, say the motor oil costs $1 per quart with a 40 gallon tank. It would then be 2.5 cents more expensive per gallon for your fuel mix and I bet where you are located you can find biodiesel as cheap or cheaper than straight-run diesel #2.
Coul you please send that report to me??? My email is in my signature.
If you use two cycle oil.Make sure you use the stuff that is listed on the study,Its ash less and leaves no deposits,Supposedly.I used it for a while.I was pretty thick stuff as you could imagine.When you drain the fuel bowl your fuel is a puke green color.I don't know if it related.But when I started to use this stuff,my truck started to knock a little.Injector knock think.Then I stopped using it recently.I went to the opti-lube stuff.After I used the Sea foam.I don't have any knock what so ever now.Again I don't know if they are related or its the sea foam that cleared everything out.But the 2-cycle oil just seems real gritty to me.I don't want to start another additive war.I know alot of people use the 2-cycle and are happy.Thats fine,just not for me>
My 2 cents.Maybe 3
If you use two cycle oil.Make sure you use the stuff that is listed on the study,Its ash less and leaves no deposits,Supposedly.I used it for a while.I was pretty thick stuff as you could imagine.When you drain the fuel bowl your fuel is a puke green color.I don't know if it related.But when I started to use this stuff,my truck started to knock a little.Injector knock think.Then I stopped using it recently.I went to the opti-lube stuff.After I used the Sea foam.I don't have any knock what so ever now.Again I don't know if they are related or its the sea foam that cleared everything out.But the 2-cycle oil just seems real gritty to me.I don't want to start another additive war.I know alot of people use the 2-cycle and are happy.Thats fine,just not for me>
My 2 cents.Maybe 3
Seafoam seems to be one of the few products that actually works. Used it on both the boat and the Maverick. Did wonders on both. The 2 cycle oil that I have left over is Mercurcy, forget the name. Supposedly ashless.
Yea I never noticed the seafoam before I heard about it on this board.A couple of weeks ago I see they carry it in wal-mart.So I used it.Like I said before It was knocking.I switched over to optilube.And filled the bowl with sefoam at the same time.So I dont know which one fixed the knock.But its gone.
///SNIP///
The 2 cycle oil that I have left over is Mercurcy, forget the name. Supposedly ashless.
Probably "Quicksilver" brand. One that nobody mentioned yet is Schaeffer's Diesel Treat. I have a can of that in my truck now waiting on my current tank of BD/dino to be run through. It did fairly well on the lubricity chart.
Has any body tried the Marvel Mystery oil. Some guy I met at the store was swearing buy it. But then again he had a dudge. I thought that there was a study on here.