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The screw on the back adjusts the vane pump pressure. That in turn changes the pump advance. It's (should be) covered by a plastic cap. Same thing as a vaccum advance on a distro.
no serpentine belt on mine, even if it was for a serpentine belt truck wonder what difference it would make.
Depending on which way you turn it, the effect will either make the fuel get dumped sooner in the throttle range/RPM range or higher up in the range. I have heard that it can have an adverse affect on fuel economy, but not as bad as you are saying.
Like I said, it's not an "air fuel mix" screw. It only adjusts the timing curve, by changing the pressure. Messing with this screw could... well... screw up the Ip, as well as perm damage to the engine. It's like setting the advance too much and having pre-detonation. IIRC, the absolute max that should be is 130 psi, but is calibrated for around 70psi.
And I do have it on my '90. Noticed it when I took it apart and cleaned it out. Can you see if there is clean threads. I.e. someone turned it out? It sounds like they may have backed off the screw, lowering the psi. Thus retarding the advance. One thing to try.
Once the engine is warmed up, jump a wire from the fuel shut off terminal to the cold advance schelenoid. If the smoke stops-lessens, than either your pump is too retarded, or more likely the vane pressure has been lowered.
It does NOTHING for performance. And after 3 mo's of playing with it. I feel it prolly hurts , more than it helps.
All's it does is limit the amount of fuel delivered below 1700 RPM's. Before the engine can burn the full amount of fuel that the pump can deliver.
IF your getting that poor of fuel economy, and whitish smoke. I'd suspect that the PO has the IP 1 tooth retarded on the IP Gear.
That was in the back of my head. If my scetchy memory serves, he did mention in an earlier thread that the IP marks were off by some 3/16", which is close to the size of two IP drive gear teath. I just don't know of any examples of IPs aligned one or two teath off, but according to at least one source, these engines will run with the timing 180 degrees off (not very well either).
I would try what LilDuke suggested first, since its easier to test.
ive never messed with anything on the ip. the only thing that i have messed with is the timing. the truck has smoked ever since ive owned it and fuel and power has realy sucked. like ive said ive looked at all the marks and everything is on. no matter which way you turn the ip it does nothing for fuel and smoke issue. ive jumped the advance solenoid and seen no change. what symptoms would a stuck advance give?
If the timing is too advanced there would be a loud clacky rattle, much louder on acceleration and even louder when cold, and of course the smoke. Anywhere from slight blue to grey, and maybe a hint of white (depending on lighting). Not much black unless its overfueling.
The ideal sound is to have a slight rattle right at idle, and the sound smooths out as you throttle up.
the way i have it set now is some rattle at first than after about 5 seconds it starts going away. after it gets warmed up you realy dont hear any rattle but every now and then. you dont see a lot of black smoke just if you gas it real hard and let it off you will see a puff of black and then you see like a bluish white smoke if that makes any sence.
the way i have it set now is some rattle at first than after about 5 seconds it starts going away. after it gets warmed up you realy dont hear any rattle but every now and then. you dont see a lot of black smoke just if you gas it real hard and let it off you will see a puff of black and then you see like a bluish white smoke if that makes any sence.
That does make sence, and thats exactly how it should sound. Do you have high oil consumption?
no not really but then again i dont drive it enough to really see how much oil its burning. ive also concidered the smoke being oil and am running two bottles of auto-rx as we speek, for about two weeks now. it hasnt really been in there long enough to see if thats what it is are if the stuff really works. even if it was oil that was causing the smoke issue wouldnt it still have enough power to pull itself out of a wet paper bag lol. ive did a compression test on all the cylinders and every one read from 400 to 410 so i dont think its compression related.
Four DB2 pumps have the external fuel screw, some people call it a torque screw.
DB2 5013
DB2 5028
DB2 5069
DB2 5070
The 5013 and 5028 are 92.5 thru 94 manual and automatic tranny equipped trucks respectively.
The 5069 and 5070 are 93 or 94 turbo motors with automatic or manual trannies respectively.
I think there is either an air leak in the fuel suction line or a timing issue since it is not bellowing out black smoke.