DIY Leveling Kit?
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From: SW Virginia
DIY Leveling Kit?
Okay I've heard the little spacer thing that goes between the axle and the spring is a bad way to level a truck, but I want to level my truck!
This discount way of leveling a truck is on evilbay, it looks pretty simple to make. I have the metal and I'm a pretty good welder. Anyone have any dimensions on one of these leveling kits?
she sits a little crooked
This discount way of leveling a truck is on evilbay, it looks pretty simple to make. I have the metal and I'm a pretty good welder. Anyone have any dimensions on one of these leveling kits?
she sits a little crooked
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From: SE Wisco
Reasons - The truck carries quite a bit of condition up front, but really looses it towards the rear. It also seems to rely quite a bit on the front. Overall, it has excellent lenght of body and is a solid fit at the front of the class.
(PS - If you don't show cattle that is not near as funny)
I'll be right back with the answer...
(PS - If you don't show cattle that is not near as funny)
I'll be right back with the answer...
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by RAMPAGE_F350
The bar stock needs to be 9 3/4 inches long, 2 inches wide, 3/8 thick. The center of the hole to be drilled to the end on the shackle is 3/4 inch.
-Chris
-Chris
Finish this up with the steel sizes the guy on eBay gives you and you have them made.
BTW - I don't understand the whole angles and suspension relm of the PSD, but IIUC the pinion and maybe caster angles don't really matter till you are in 4x4. I believe the pinion is the angle the driveshaft enters the pumpkin. I think caster is the angle between the upper and lower ball joints. This effects steering, but should actually improve high speed steering (but that may only be on IFS...you probably read the thread)
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From: SW Virginia
Originally Posted by sflem849
Reasons - The truck carries quite a bit of condition up front, but really looses it towards the rear. It also seems to rely quite a bit on the front. Overall, it has excellent lenght of body and is a solid fit at the front of the class.
(PS - If you don't show cattle that is not near as funny)
I'll be right back with the answer...
(PS - If you don't show cattle that is not near as funny)
I'll be right back with the answer...
Thanks Scott
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From: spring lake park mn
make sure when you drill your hols. drill all 4 at the same time for proper alignment.
and try to keep the hole's align during welding.that will help during installation
hope this help's
lee
and try to keep the hole's align during welding.that will help during installation
hope this help's
lee
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It's against the law to do this in the first place. if it was not we would have done this along time ago. Only in the rear can you do this. in the front, it can cause un safe handiling. Get a leveling kit and be safe!!!
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From: SW Virginia
Okay I thought I knew how these things worked but I guess not.
I have looked at my spring hanger and the spacer and still can't figure out how it goes in. It's a good idea to figure out how it works before I try making one!
Thanks
I have looked at my spring hanger and the spacer and still can't figure out how it goes in. It's a good idea to figure out how it works before I try making one!
Thanks
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From: SW Virginia
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by jwhitetail
It's against the law to do this in the first place. if it was not we would have done this along time ago. Only in the rear can you do this. in the front, it can cause un safe handiling. Get a leveling kit and be safe!!!
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From: SW Virginia
Well the ones I'm making are going to be superior to stock. I'm probably going to have to get longer bolts, i'm using 5/8 thick steel for the shackle and brace, then plating it with 1/4 inch steel. I'll post pics when i'm done
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by SVLERF250PWRSTRKE
Well the ones I'm making are going to be superior to stock. I'm probably going to have to get longer bolts, i'm using 5/8 thick steel for the shackle and brace, then plating it with 1/4 inch steel. I'll post pics when i'm done
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