when i first go out and start my 84 f150 351w 4180c carb it starts and idles fine but i go to put in in gear it just dies can anyone help solve my problem

 

Is it ok after it warms up?

 

yes it is ok after it warms up but it takes close to 25 mins to warm up so that it will go

 

Look on the passenger side of the carb. There should be a large round black thing with screws in it. Loosen the screws, and turn the black housing in the richer direction. Usually it will say richer or leaner on the side of it. If it doesn't, then turn it so the choke door on the top of the carb wants to shut a little bit more.

 

also i have a problem with it sometimes when i take off from a stop while at an intersection and it dies and i have to throw it in neutral and restart and go

 

i looked for the black thing with screws in it but the only thing i saw was the electric choke cap and i dont think it can be turned

 

Electric choke cap is what he was talking about--some are made with screws that have no slot to prevent tampering. I've filed slots in them to enable use of a screwdriver to remove them. But, you may have an accelerator pump problem since you're also experiencing stalling on takeoff from a stop. Take the aircleaner off, hold the choke plate open and move the throttle linkage (engine off). You should see two robust streams of fuel emitted from the nozzles. Little or no streams = bad pump diaphram. Also a blown power valve in the carburetor can cause stalling, acceleration and idling issues. P.S. If the hot air supply from the exhaust manifold "stove" and the associated air cleaner flapper valve circuit is not working then cold drivability can suffer badly.

 

ok i tested the accelerator pump and in one barrell the stream is steady and uniform where the other its more of a messy spray but does still spray. what is the power valve

 

Sounds like one side is clogged with gum. They both should be the same.

 

how do i fix that does that require a rebuild to fix because the way i understand it i might as well get a new carb if thats the case because that carb is a 4180c

 

Want to rebuild your 4180?

Kit from Advance Auto Parts:


Part No.
96483B GP Sorensen Carburetor Kit
Ford; 4180; Carb. #E4TE-ARA; E5TE-ABA; E5HE-FA; E5TE-ZA
Warranty: Limited 1 Year*

Ships in 1 day
$33.97
Kits do not include a power valve (screws into main metering block in carburetor). You need to get the exact power valve for your specific carburetor. The Ford carburetor P/N (example: E4TE-9510-ARA) and the Holley List Number (example: 50004) are stamped into the carburetor airhorn. Holley, Walker and other manufacturers make 4180 kits also, at prices up to about $90.
Power valves are another $30-$35. Can of spray-on carburetor cleaner is around $6-$8. You definitely need a source of compressed air and a blow gun. Make sure you get the cleaner in all the internal passages and let it sit for a couple of hours. If you decide to repair, follow all the instructions exactly and pay close attention to the old gaskets. The kit may contain gaskets for carburetor models different than yours so make sure the new gaskets you use exactly match the old ones removed. The differences may be very slight (as little as one hole in some cases).

 

In this case I would recommend he get a new 600 Holley carb. Rebuilding a carb is not for everyone, and you can tell from the previous posts he has no experience with a carb at all. Instead of the steep learning curve required for him to rebuild the carb he has, he could get a brand new one and stick it on the manifold and drive away a happy person, only several hundred dollars poorer.

 

Youre right i have little to no experience with carbs but i think everything in the carb is functioning properly except the power valve, but all the emissions vacuum lines are all screwed up. which ones do i need to drive and run correctly and have decent mpg?
And i dont have the several hundred dollars to purchase a new carb

 

How important is the Evaporative Emission Control System?