1 scan 5 codes
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Originally Posted by Rockledge
They're wrong, that's why. So you still have to consider it.
How much oil did you find in the CMP sensor? There really shouldn't be any oil in there. The sensor "cavity" part of the syncronizer shaft is seperate from the lower portion (w/gear) that mounts down inside the engine.
If it's not a CMP problem, then ignition-wise another thing on the list of suspects could be a bad crank sensor which is probably the single most important component responsible for maintaining proper spark timing.
How much oil did you find in the CMP sensor? There really shouldn't be any oil in there. The sensor "cavity" part of the syncronizer shaft is seperate from the lower portion (w/gear) that mounts down inside the engine.
If it's not a CMP problem, then ignition-wise another thing on the list of suspects could be a bad crank sensor which is probably the single most important component responsible for maintaining proper spark timing.
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for the 25.00 dollars I decided to get the crankshaft position sensor which I will put on tomorrow I will probably remove the defective cam synchronizer and put in the new one from AZ and hope it last longer than the first. I am also considering changing the upper and lower intake gaskets to help rule out vacuum there. I have no other ideas of what to try
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only to me
while attempting to change the crank sensor somehow the plastic broke from around one of the holes and now the nipple that sticks in the hole is STUCK man this truck is really about to drive me to the edge
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crankshaft sensor replaced...new air filter(didn't realize how dirty it was) I also found the old camshaft position sensor in the hole in the fender well that allows air in to the breather(that had to be bad) cleaned the MAF and had the negative cable off the battery alllll night. took the truck for a little 25 mile drive making sure to stop in the middle and stop and reset the computer. it seems to be idling very well and has a little more power than before. Of course time will tell. I am hoping that the good idle now rules out the dreaded intake gasket leak I would think if it had one it would already be idling poorly. I talked to the previous owner and he tells me that the IAC on it right now came out of the salvage yard and the numbers on it are different than the one he took off. not sure if I should spend the money on a new one or not??..
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I think I will hold off on the IAC and If I haven't got it I have to decide if I should shot it or try to sell it...overall I would think it is in good shape but there seems to be gremlins in it
Posting Guru
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From: Higginsville, MO
If you change the synchronizer make sure you stay away from the Dorman unit....very prone to failure. Been many write ups on it on various forums.
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I am not sue of which brand I got from AZ but it is already giving out and allowing oil up into the sensor after almost exactly a year of service. I am trying to decide if I should get the next one from AZ or if I want to break down at some point and spend the 180.00 dollars at the dealer ship. at least the on from AZ will be free since it has the LLT warranty
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From: Higginsville, MO
Warranty is not much good if you have to replace the part every year if you ask me. I've heard of the Dormans giving out in as little as 2,500 miles because the thrust washer is too thin. The Motorcraft part or Cardone are much better.
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well sure enogh after 150 miles my CEL is back and again I have 0401,0402(not sure why you would get both??)and the one that sounds the most expensive is 0420. I have read here and been told that the misfire problems I had my have have caused enough damage to the cat. to cause this. BUT on the bright side no misfire codes at this time and my idle although a little rough is nowhere near as bad as it was
Hotshot
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From: St Louis
Looks like it's time for a new DPFE sensor.
I've observed cat efficiency codes popping up after severe misfire problems. It's my thought that the cat became overloaded with fuel and simply can't recover. On some vehicles, a B12 treatment will help clean up the old cat and bring it back to life. I guess you could call that a "dead cat bounce".
Steve
I've observed cat efficiency codes popping up after severe misfire problems. It's my thought that the cat became overloaded with fuel and simply can't recover. On some vehicles, a B12 treatment will help clean up the old cat and bring it back to life. I guess you could call that a "dead cat bounce".
Steve
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I replaced the DPFE not too long ago with the AZ part but I will probably try to swap it back out,I will try the B12 treatment,thanks for the idea....just one question would you reccommend B12 shot or oral
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If it comes to replacing the cat, I don't have that part added to my online store, but we do normally stock it. I would run some B12 or Seafoam treatment through a vacuum line on the engine and see if that doesn't resolve the cat code. Resolve the EGR problems first, and make sure the passages are clean. If after fixing the EGR and cleanign the engine the cat code comes back, you will need a new one.
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