Hey again!

So after getting most of my mods on and fixing all the leaks from the top of the engine, I changed the oil (15w40 Rotella) and went to fire it up. After cranking it for a while and getting enough oil in the HPOP to operate, it started up and ran really rough for a while as I expected after reading these posts here. The crappy thing is that my check engine light is still on and I have no code reader. So after beating myself up for a few hours, I broke down and took it to the stealership for a diagnostic check. After paying the 90 bucks and ensuring they didn't touch anything on it, they brought it back with a whole mess of codes. Here's what the codes are:

1) P0470
2) P0478
3) P0603
4) P1210
5) P1211
6) P1280
7) P1316
Also, they said my oil failed the areation test!!!

I researched all of these codes and have a good idea as to what fixes them and will start into it on my next day off. My question is why would my oil fail the areation test? They said it was extremely bubbly and it needed changed. I just changed it the day before I took it them. Would one of these codes I have cause the oil to be filled with air more so than normal? Am I in for a whole mess of work (which I don't mind at all) that is going to be of some major costly repairs?

Thanks in advance.

 

O.K. not so bad. Looks like we got a plugged EBP tube, a KAM code(pretty common on chipped trucks, or if the batt has been disconnected), a possible UVC harness issue.(the injector group may be more involved, but I doubt it)
As far as the aeration, if may have been from trying to refill the HPOP by cranking it.

 

Cool, that's what I like to hear... I haven't yet cleaned the EBP tube so that was on my list of to do's. Am hoping to clear a few of those codes up with minor work. I know my battery cables need serviced, so that might clear one up. Also, I was going to do the IPR servicing and replace the ICP since I'm there. As far as the oil goes, do I need to change it again? Anything else I may be concerned about? The truck runs rough and dies once in a great while.

 

I would not change the oil again, you have fresh oil in it now. I'd follow Brandon's advice and check the uvc harness and ebp tube. If you pop off the valve covers and find the injector/GP plug half off, you stuck gold. I hope it's that simple for you.

 

ICP is a plug and play replacement, but if its not broke don't replace it.

IPR is a little bit different, and more involved. Once again if the IPR is not causing problems I would let her ride.

Dont change the oil agian just yet, lets knock out the cause of theses codes then we can worry about that. BTW hows your oil level, is it overfilled? that can also cause aeration

 

Just some thoughts here. Why was you HPOP empty and need to turn to refill? If your HPOP was out of oil, the IPR and IPC will throw codes because no oil pressure to read. I would think that itself would cause areation, just in the process of refilling. If you can give if a while to settle the air out, clear the codes, forget about the 0603 code and see what comes back. If you drained the HPOP yourself, you should refill it before starting. Check you oil levels. It will take a while to work the air out and it will run a little rough. Let us know what you find.

 

Barry makes a good point. Unfortunately it sounds like the best thing to do would be to clear the codes and see which, if any come back. Maybe you'll get lucky and find a member here with a scanner that will check things out for you. You might also call a few independent garages and ask what they charge for a scan. If you like to do the work yourself you might invest in a scanner so you can save the $90 each time. Cheapest price on the AE is http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php?crn=135&rn=426&action=show_detail

Edit: I wouldn't change the oil either. I'm guessing their oil aeration test was looking at the dipstick for bubbles.

 

How long has the truck been driven since the work was done? it could still be purging air out of the system which would cause aireation as well.

 

What did you do to the truck?

Here we go, I have swapped/had swapped injectors multiple times now. I have serviced the IPR, I have drained the HPOP and refilled, and I have never thrown a laundry list of codes like that. I have even cranked to start the truck without any oil in the HPO rails. Cranked until it ran, and while it smoked and ran rough for a few minutes, it did settle down and never dies.

Bubbles on the dipstick is not the oil aeration test. It involves running the truck in park at like 3k rpms for 3 minutes watching the HPO pressure. The next step is raising the rear of the truck and running it with extra oil in the crank and looking to see if it changes. This points to a cracked LPO pickup tube which allows air in the line.

I guess what I am getting at is what work did you do to the truck, and which test did they run? I would guess the first one.

 

Thanks Mike. I was just suggesting that since most dealers seem to charge around $90 to hook up to the computer and pull codes, they may have not actually checked for aerated oil.

 

I agree fully Chris. I just didn't want him to think that was how the test was done. If you can see foam or bubbles on the stick, that is also not good.

 

Hey guys, sorry it took so long to get back to you. I work nights so this is when I get to chat with all of you and search for info... So I guess I should have enlightened you all on the initial start of the work I did. Just tried to make short work of it and see what you guys thought. All your replies here make good sense as to why I have some of these codes.

The beginning problem: (kinda long)... bear with me

My truck had been running fine til one day going about 60 mph down the highway, the SES light came on,

 

Woops, hit the wrong button. let me start again:
_____________________________________________
The beginning problem: (kinda long)... bear with me

My truck had been running fine til one day going about 60 mph down the highway, the SES light came on, truck immediately began vibrating and jerking to the point where I had to turn around and drive back home to look at it. Noticed I could only get about half the power out of the truck too. Luckily it was only a mile or so. Got back home, popped the hood and noticed engine oil all over both sides of the engine running down by the tranny. In 5 or so minutes it had dumped at least a quart on the ground. Figured I had neglected this truck too long and decided to read on here and find my problems. The next warm day came around (30 degrees) and I started tearing into the front and top. This is what I found:

1) Turbo pedestal blowing oil
2) Fuel filter leaking like crazy
3) Water pump about blown apart inside, but it still rotated fine only was extremely wobbly.
4) Boost hose blown off
5) Intercooler boots leaking and about to come off.
6) HPOP leaking

This is what I found and figured I'd do some mods to it in the meantime since I was in there. Took the turbo off, had it rebuilt. Took the intercoolers off and removed the foil, cleaned them up and painted. Bought new NON-EBPV pedestal along with the NON-EBPV turbo outlet. Removed the valve covers and replaced the gaskets but not the UVC harness. Replaced fuel filter and seals. Got rid of the AIH and ran the AIH delete wire from the relay. Added 6637 and new intercooler boots as well as engine boots. After getting it all back together, it is running a little better but still has that "miss" and codes are there. This is when I had Ford run the check for the codes.

Hope this helps...any ideas?

 

Almost forgot a few things I added as well. Added the Tru-Cool Max tranny cooler, installed the EB terminator, installed the OBA, and put on the 203 degree thermostat with the billet housing. So far, there are no leaks at all and it is ready to roll. only issues now is that the codes are there as well as the "miss" I am witnessing. The big problem I may have is when it shifts into overdrive while driving, it begins to shake and jerk irradically. Would this be my tranny going south?

Any ideas on all of these issues would be greatly appreciated??????

 

I hope you at least checked the UVCH clips and wires when you had the valve covers off. How long have you run this since all the work was done? As mentioned above, you may just need to work the air out of the system.