I know the title does not help state what the issue is. I have a 2002 Explorer Sport with a 4.0L V6 with 4 wheel drive. When I turn the key in the ignition, all I hear is 1 loud click and nothing else. The radio and other lights light up but the nothing from the engine.

Now everything was working fine on Friday. I was driving home from work and a jerk pulled out of a gas station and cut me off. When he cut me off he hit a very deep puddle and sprayed a lot of water up. Now when he cut me off, he was about 2 feet in front of me and I caught the whole water spray.

After that, my engine started to knock and ping a little. I drove the car until I could reach a safe place to pull over but I heard a lound knock and the engine died. Tried to get the car started and all I could get was a single loud click. I had the Explorer towed back to my house

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So far this is what I have done to fix but have had no sucess...

Tested battery and is fully charged
Replaced Starter and started cylonoid
verified all wires are connected and not damaged
has about quarter of a tank of gas

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Ok went outside today to turn the Crankshart pulley with my pops. He got under there and said he was able to turn it a little but somthing was catching. I tried to start it and instead of getting the single click, the starter is working but it fails to turn the engine. Just hearing multiple clicks vs the one single click. My dad thinks that the timing chain is broke Any ideas with this update as well as any issues with 02 Explorers and timing chains?

 

Try taking out the spark plugs to see if the engine turns any easier.

 

I'm really hoping you didn't do any major damage, but when water gets sucked into an engine it can bend a rod since water won't compress in the cylinder. As stated above, take the plugs out and see if it'll turn over, you may very well get a spray of water out of one or more spark plug holes so stand clear.

This is what a hydraulic'd rod looks like:



This came out of a 5.0 that sucked water. It still ran but had a bad knock, which was caused by the bottom of the piston hitting the crank on every revolution owing to the now-shorter rod.

Let's hope that you fair better than the 5.0...

 

Took it to the shop yesterday and they called today stating that I might need a new engine. They found Anti-freeze in my oil pan. Possible cracked engine head or cracked engine block. They are saying that I might need a new motor. They will be calling back after they see if there is any other damage. Any idea what a replacement motor will cost?

 

Too many variables...depends on the shop itself, what they get a motor for and and what the motor is, whether it's a rebuilt, used, etc.


Also depends on location. I would guess the motor itself, rebuilt, would come in at around $2K.

 

We were snow riding one spring and a girl in a 2wd came with us. We all went thru a puddle from a blocked culvert, well... more like a medium beaver pond... Any way... she dove right in and - you guessed it - the air intake tube was low enough where it took a good gulp and POOF!!! no more engine. We felt sorry for her and all but some of them things are only learned by doing. Oh, her boyfriend was shotgun, his bad.

Myself I would evaluate your vehicle. Low miles, nice shape = new short block from napa etc. Higher miles, paid for, = maybe salvage yard. Either way these trucks are so light and small to work on is a joy.

Buy a beater to get to work for a week or two and do 'er in the driveway... (the truck that is... LOL)

GOOD LUCK!

 

OH and antifreeze may only mean a headgasket. Cheap, easy DIY

Ask what specifically the shop did. They/you can do a radiator pressure check to see if the leak goes into a cyl or oil passage. (remove plugs and listen with a pc of garden hose) individual compression checks on cylinders will tell you lots too. Again listen with a garden hose. If you can get, or make a fitting to pressurise the individual cylinders at the top of the compression stroke, Keeping in mind that the compressed air will turn your motor over and grab your fingers if you're not at TDC, and blow the rad hose if the cap is on, then you can find where the leaks are and the severity of your problem.

Unless you (like/trust/are-related-to) your mechanic DO NOT let them tell you what you need to do. But ya also don't want to **** 'em off either.

Disclaimer: i don't know everything - aint gonna tell you that i do. But, a lot of nice people out there are willing to give you their opion and advice for free. If time isn't a major factor, listen, talk, and think about it too.

FTE is a godsend for DIY's as far as advice and free knowledge goes.

again GOOD LUCK!!!

 

Well the final verdict was a cracked engine block and and a bad case of hydro-lock. I took it from the shop and had a buddy do a complete tear down of the engine. So not so good for me. I was able to find a replacement engine for $800 and he charged me about $400. So I am only out $1200. With the gas prices on th erise and me having to comute 40+ miles aday I think I am gonna sell it and get a car.

 

$100 bucks says thet keeping the Explorer will be much better fianancially than gettting another car, even if it gets better mileage.

Unless the "new" care gets 50 MPG - AND - you keep it for 10 years, you're not going to come out ahead in the wallet. Just my .02

CMOS