shoot man 22in of travel should be enough for anyone.

 

it might be too much but thats why they make bump stops and limit straps.

 

tis true tis true.

 

Here's a little trick I discovered when I ran a Dana 44 axle with big tires. I found that if u find some inner axles from a 75 dana 44 with the closed knuckle style and drum brakes they have axles that are much stronger than the later years. On the stub shaft where the shaft turns to splines the newer styles have a tapered narrow section that is a weak point, the closed knuckle axles do not have the weak section and the u joints are bigger. But heres the trick...... First of all the ujoint is big enough where it won't clear the threads for the ball joints as it spins so what you have to do is grind the ring that holds the ujoint in until the cap is flush and then tack weld the caps into place. The ujoint still wont clear until you use a die grinder and grind down the extra thread past the nut on the lower ball joint. The last thing you need to do is either grind (or possibly lathe if you really wanted to) the stub inner axles where it runs in the spindle bearing because that part is a little larger as well. The only minor problem I found is there is no seal to the axle tube due to the axle usually being a closed knuckle and it was not neccisarry. I've been doing hard core wheelin for years and believe me it works!!!!! If you have any more questions feel free to ask

 

put it this way..I ran this truck in a tough truck compitition last summer with those same inner axles and it never broke ...

 

thanks for the tip i was thinking about running the closed knuckles just for the added protection on trail but im still looking into it and trying to decide.

thanks
tony

 

@#%$ the closed knuckle just rape the inners and run disc brake later axle. Or go dana 60 like I did

 

id run 60s but im tryin to keep the weight down as much as i can this poor little frames gonna have enough to keep up with. im sure once its all said and done ill prob have a need for the 60 but not yet.

 

There is always the Chrom shafts and upgraded joints for the D44. Just need to be careful on the joint selection if the truck is going to be used on the street. I run a 44 in my mud racer (the old 95 150 and the new BB Ranger Im building). Heck check out Monsterbaby's full on mud race Ranger with a crazy BB and he only runs a 44 with stock shafts and 39's!

 

Monsterbaby can get by with his stock shafts because he only does straight ling bogs. The pressure truely comes into play when you start turning(it basically starts multiplying the forces on the shaft and joints).

IF you want some good shafts look into Superior(They are heattreated inside and out) or AlloyUSA(They have good quality shafts with a great 10 year no question axles warranty)(and possibly moser-good but expensive and ****y warranty/service), and some good joints are Longfield 300x or CTMs*(OX joints are crap), but you might get buy with the spicer 760x. The Yukon XJoint sounds like it might be worth the money, but still a little too new. The above mentioned shafts are good b/c they are harded 4340, the cheapo shafts Jeff'sBGY sell and Yukons are only 4140 and aren't much better than stock, and some say they are worst than stock.

Now for everyone that rambled off a bunch of XTY race bike stuff earlier, did ya'll follow all that?

 

uhhh, yep!!!

 

fully!


and they are stronger than stock!!!

 

you seem to be a bit high centered there!!!
HAHAHAHHAHAHA

 

I knew you would.....




And about the yukons......IF that's what you think, then ok, What ever makes you sleep at night!



Just messing with ya. IF I had some I wouldn't be complaining.

 

Good to hear.

Everyone know the difference between the different hardening processes?





Something like that should be on the test...