Hi all,
Quick question. My brake pressure switch is filled with fluid, presumably brake fluid from the master cylinder. I've got an '01 F150 4.6 manual tranny. Can anyone tell me how to remove the switch? Just turn it counterclockwise?

Thanks much!!

 

If you're talking about the switch that signals the cruise control, its probably covered by FORD's recalls-see 'Recalls/TSBs' at top of this page. They may do it for free. For safety, in order to remove the risk of fire from the leak shorting out the switch, FORD simply disconnects temporarily. I've called dealers several times since FORD notified me only to find the recall's switches & fuzed pigtails Out of Stock!

Yes, they just screw in & out, counterclockwise loosens them. Expect these hydraulic connections to be pretty tight.

 

Yes that is a recall (#05S28) You need to take that in to your local dealer to get it done. It is free of charge. I'm in the Northwest and we have not gotten those recalls in yet, but they will disconnect that for you.

 

It seems that the switch itself is not covered in the recall, just a new harness that eliminates the possibility of a fire. I did the work this afternoon, it was fairly easy. There's a bolt toward the base of the switch, so I just used a wrench to loosen it up. A word to the wise: Take off the cover to the master cylinder before loosening. Then make sure to have the new part handy because brake fluid will start to ooze out. Finally, make sure to pump brakes a few times with vehicle started to rebuild pressure.
Anyway, thanks everyone for your help. Now I was able to run the diagnostic, which indicated "deactivator switch is open or circuit defective." Anyone know what I should do from here?

Thanks!

 

Kindly keep all related posts for the same problem in the same thread....

 

Sorry! Forgot that the old thread would move back up and I wanted to give a shout out to the folks who helped....

 

Just to give a quick update to those wanna-be gearheads like myself who experience this problem...Turns out that my truck was serviced under the initial recall, before I bought the truck. According to my local dealer the initial recall only called for the new in-line fuse harness and not necessarily a swap of the deactivation switch. So I went ahead and replaced the switch, as mentioned above, and - also as mentioned above - the circuit was still incomplete. I decided upon the advice from this forum to test the circuit and see where the break was. Turns out that the fuse in the new harness did what it was supposed to. I got no power after the harness, but got it before. Before doing that, however, I called the dealer. They told me that under the updated recall, the switch should have been replaced. But it was closed on my truck after the harness was installed. Now I'm trying to get them to cover the cost of the switch. We'll see what kind of luck I have with that one. So, after I removed the fuse from the harness, I went to several auto parts stores looking for a replacement, excited that I had probably solved my long-annoying cruise failure for minimal cost. Turns out that Advance and several other stores didn't carry the 2 amp fuse in the harness. Now I'm going to have to wait until tommorrow to pick one up somewhere. But all's well that ends well, I guess.
Thanks to everyone who helped me out and again sorry for the breach of etiquette with the double post. At least I didn't get ripped on like Angus in the "possessed spark plug" thread.

 

I wonder if I put my own inline replaceable fuse holder in? 've got all the parts from another project.