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I finally got time to swap out the brake pressure switch because the cruise control has been deactivated for a while. I got the switched unplugged and brake fluid started dripping out. I checked the fuse and it was saturated with fluid. How is that better than when the switch itself gets wet? The fluid will still bridge the contacts. In any case, Ed got me a switch and I'm good again.
I had the fuse harness put in under the recall a couple weeks after they included the superduty. I was disappointed at the time because it seemed like a band aid rather than a fix. I can't see the fuse helping the situation, the switch was cheap enough I wish they had done it right the first time.
That's why I used the quotes. Even submarines leak.
My thought though is what is the difference between brake fluid saturating the connector and shorting out vs brake fluid saturating both the fuse holder and the connector and shorting? A short is a short, next to the M/C or in the middle of the harness, correct?
I finally got time to swap out the brake pressure switch because the cruise control has been deactivated for a while. I got the switched unplugged and brake fluid started dripping out. I checked the fuse and it was saturated with fluid. How is that better than when the switch itself gets wet? The fluid will still bridge the contacts. In any case, Ed got me a switch and I'm good again.
I'm in same situation, cruise just stopped working and I found the recall harness was saturated with brake fluid, so cruise unit is getting a +12v on its brake pressure input regardless of whether I have the harness connected to the leaking sensor or not. ..apparently brake fluid is conductive.
Question, ...was it a big hassle to bleed the system after replacing the switch??? Thanks.
I went under the theory of if the fluid could flow out freely, then air could not climb back up. So I pulled the cap on the MC and then unscrewed the sensor and put the new one in as quickly as possible. The idea is if atmosphere can push down on the reservoir then air will have no need in traveling up the MC.
I went under the theory of if the fluid could flow out freely, then air could not climb back up. So I pulled the cap on the MC and then unscrewed the sensor and put the new one in as quickly as possible. The idea is if atmosphere can push down on the reservoir then air will have no need in traveling up the MC.
Thanks, will give it a shot tonight. I picked up the switch from Ford last night, $22 and it included the fused harness extention (good thing since my current one is saturated with leaked brake fluid).
...Is there any thread sealant required on the new switch to prevent leaking? Did you use anything?
I changed the sensor out in '07 because it was leaking. The dealer said it was not on recall at the time. I paid 27.00 for the sensor and pigtail. Has not leaked again and I didn't put anything on the threads.
My switch was pre-lock-tite'd, it had some kind of hard red sealer already applied. It's a two pole plug and uses power, so it shouldn't need a ground. Not needing a ground, a thread sealer shouldn't effect it's operation.
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