Help with rounded cop bolt!
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Freshman User
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Help with rounded cop bolt!
Group,
I had a misfire on cylinder 7 and the cop bolt ( 7mm ) rounded. I have tried a smaller socket and vise grips do not seem to fit inthere to get at it. any help or advise would be very helpful. I was looking at the "Bolt out" kits from Sears but they seem to have size 6 and 8 but not 7. The truck is running really rough and I have to drive it due to my work and I'm starting to think that I am also loosing fuel economy as well. and I also notice a strong smell of sulfur. help!!
I had a misfire on cylinder 7 and the cop bolt ( 7mm ) rounded. I have tried a smaller socket and vise grips do not seem to fit inthere to get at it. any help or advise would be very helpful. I was looking at the "Bolt out" kits from Sears but they seem to have size 6 and 8 but not 7. The truck is running really rough and I have to drive it due to my work and I'm starting to think that I am also loosing fuel economy as well. and I also notice a strong smell of sulfur. help!!
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
Drill off the head - take out a COP bolt that's easy to get out 
Find a drill bit slightly larger than the threads. Drill through the center of the head of the bolt until the head falls off. Remove the COP.
Then you might be able to get a vice-grip on what's left of it. The COP is so thick, you should have about 3/8" of stud sticking out of the hole. PB blaster, CRC penetrant, Gibbs, whatever, soak it.
If you have to, you might have to use an easy-out to get the rest of the bolt out.
Find a drill bit slightly larger than the threads. Drill through the center of the head of the bolt until the head falls off. Remove the COP.Then you might be able to get a vice-grip on what's left of it. The COP is so thick, you should have about 3/8" of stud sticking out of the hole. PB blaster, CRC penetrant, Gibbs, whatever, soak it.
If you have to, you might have to use an easy-out to get the rest of the bolt out.
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Krewat,
Thank you, I might have to take that action but I am going to stop by Sears tonight and see if they have a bolt off set or a long set of vise-grips. all I know is that something that seems so simple is really putting a damper on my day!
Thank you, I might have to take that action but I am going to stop by Sears tonight and see if they have a bolt off set or a long set of vise-grips. all I know is that something that seems so simple is really putting a damper on my day!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Blairsville,Ga
[QUOTE=Bostonsound]Krewat,
Thank you, I might have to take that action but I am going to stop by Sears tonight and see if they have a bolt off set or a long set of vise-grips. QUOTE]
unless sears has started selling a better line of tool,I have never saw a set of vise-grips there woth throwing in the garbage
could it be a sears socket started your problem??
Thank you, I might have to take that action but I am going to stop by Sears tonight and see if they have a bolt off set or a long set of vise-grips. QUOTE]
unless sears has started selling a better line of tool,I have never saw a set of vise-grips there woth throwing in the garbage
could it be a sears socket started your problem??
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Garland, TX
If that bolt is stuck well enough to round off the head, an EZ out will not be able to remove it. The LAST thing you want to do is use an EZ out on it. Shear an EZ out off inside that bolt and see how well you can drill that out without damaging the threads - NOT likely. Take it from a guy who had to drill out 12 sheared head bolt studs before.
I don't know how much room you have to work on this, but if you can get a small angle grinder or even a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel you can probably re-form the sides to the next smaller size and put a socket on it. Another very good solution if you have access to a welder is set a big nut on top of the bolt head and weld from the inside of the nut to the top of the bolt head. This gives you a very good head to wrench the bolt off and the high heat from the welder will usually stretch the bolt a bit and free it up enough to come out. Drilling should always be a last resort.
Dan
I don't know how much room you have to work on this, but if you can get a small angle grinder or even a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel you can probably re-form the sides to the next smaller size and put a socket on it. Another very good solution if you have access to a welder is set a big nut on top of the bolt head and weld from the inside of the nut to the top of the bolt head. This gives you a very good head to wrench the bolt off and the high heat from the welder will usually stretch the bolt a bit and free it up enough to come out. Drilling should always be a last resort.
Dan
Fleet Mechanic
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One thing I have done before is to use a Dremel to cut a slot across the face, and then used a flat-blade scewdriver. And if the bolt is really stuck, I have used my impact driver with a flat-blade tip.
BTW, I just broke an e-z out off in a bolt last Thursday. Not fun.
BTW, I just broke an e-z out off in a bolt last Thursday. Not fun.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
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Any way you can use a six point socket on it? Hammer it on over the damaged head and maybe get enough of a bite to get it loose?
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Thank you all for the great suggestions!!
Here is where I am so far.
1. Needle nose vise grips..No luck
2. Tried Bolt off set but the set did not seem to have the correct size Ugh!
3. Removed the next cop over for clearance, no help
4. Moved the fuel rail out of the way for even more room.
5. The affected cop moves from side to side but I'm starting to think that the bolt got crossed when installed ( Not by me! )
6. Spent over three hours on it last night and since I do not have a dremel or a compressor I had to put it all back together so I could got to work this morning still running rough Etc...
I am amazed that this simple job has turned so ugly!
Here is where I am so far.
1. Needle nose vise grips..No luck
2. Tried Bolt off set but the set did not seem to have the correct size Ugh!
3. Removed the next cop over for clearance, no help
4. Moved the fuel rail out of the way for even more room.
5. The affected cop moves from side to side but I'm starting to think that the bolt got crossed when installed ( Not by me! )
6. Spent over three hours on it last night and since I do not have a dremel or a compressor I had to put it all back together so I could got to work this morning still running rough Etc...
I am amazed that this simple job has turned so ugly!
Last edited by Bostonsound; Feb 19, 2008 at 09:35 AM. Reason: Spelling
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,191
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From: Blairsville,Ga
I would try a couple days off soaking good with PB Blaster several times a day,spraying it when engine is pretty warm
don't know is you have enough clearence to use and impact driver,but one may help
try driving a good smaller 6pt socket onto it or maybe an 8pt
don't know is you have enough clearence to use and impact driver,but one may help
try driving a good smaller 6pt socket onto it or maybe an 8pt
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
I guess there's no way to tell if the COP is bad? If you know it is, then just cut the flange from the COP in-place, then put a regular pair of vice grips on it.
If you do braze something onto that screw, make sure you remove the fuel rail and seal the supply completely. Also, if you braze the scew I would think it would destroy the COP anyway.
If you do braze something onto that screw, make sure you remove the fuel rail and seal the supply completely. Also, if you braze the scew I would think it would destroy the COP anyway.
