Bronco Tank Mod
Maybe that is why our experences differ. If you notice the sending units that are for your truck are roughly $170 whereas the 90-96 Bronco is $60 because it is just the float. So it looks like we are both right here, just out of curiosity could you check your store if your Bronco sending unit comes with the full assembly. On a side note I see you took your big motor out, how come? I remember reading your thread on the build, it seemed like a rockin' motor.


Notice how the tanks are the same width but the Bronco tank is a lot deeper and a little bit shorter front to back.

Here is the old tank removed. I left the original upper straps in place.


Here you can see the new Bronco tank sitting in the skid plate. Because I'm lazy and impatient (and it was raining and I don't have a garage, I didn't paint either of them.

Here you can see where the front drivers side of the skid plate rubs up against the brake line when test fitted. The holes in the skid plate line right up with holes in the front crossmember so bolting it in at the front is straight forward.

Notched the skid plate to provide clearance for the brake line.

I hung the front part of the skid plate first with some 3/16ths grade 5 bolts and then sat the new tank in and connected the fuel lines to the Bronco fuel sender.

This is the plug from the truck harness. The Bronco sender plug was a direct plug and play so no problems there.

Genius that I am, I originally thought I could use this as a rear crossmember to support the back side of the skid plate, however it bent as soon as I started tightening the bolts so I had to find a piece of steel angle iron. And thats with an empty tank. I had to drill a hole on each frame rail and then four holes spaced along the new crossmember for bolts for the skid plate. For some reason I didn't take pics of the new crossmember in place or what the tank looks like installed so I will try to do that today and post those later.
Overall this was really straight forward and a simple upgrade. Thanks to all who have posted regarding this swap for making it so easy.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts



Here are some shots of the crossmember that I added. Just a piece of angle iron, 36 3/4" long, just as was posted by someone else. I have a total of four holes with grade 5 bolts supporting the skid plate front and back. The last pic sort of shows how the angle iron sits in the frame rail. I had to drill a hole in the frame for those. By the way, I originally purchased replacement bottom tank straps but didn't end up using them as the skid plate supports the tank.

This is a (admittedly poor) pic of the front of the tank and skid plate. I didn't have to drill holes for those bolts, the crossmember had them already.





Finally, some shots of how the tank looks installed. It definitely sits lower than the stock tank but i don't mind. The last two shots are just out of pride cause I like my truck.
Hope this helps someone thinking of this mod in the future.
Without the use of the straps and allowing only the skid plate to hold the tank you set yourself up for a leak or two down the road. The tank will move around even if only slightly on the skid plate and possibly up against the frame at the top, add some road grit between them and it will wear through in a short time.
You really should install the tank straps, they clamp the tank securely in place. The skid plate was not designed to do the job.
Well I can't say for sure but now taking a better look at the picture of the plate it may have been all they used. I see raised sections that may have had that skid plate doing double duty.
One of the others here that have had a full sized bronco and had the tank out could answer that better, I know the bronco 2 uses straps to hold the tank then the skid/shield goes on over it all.
Or the tank straps simply rusted away and thats why you didn't see them?
Did the skid plate pinch/clamp the tank tightly in place? Did you use scrap rubber, inter tub cut in strips to put between them?
If the skid plate does do double duty on them I'd still put something between it and the tank, top and bottom. The metal on metal condition is going to cause problems for ya.
I prime/paint the tank and straps then put em in with strips of rubber to take the place of the original material. Then spray undercoating "rattle can" all over em once in place.
I see now plastic tanks are little more then the steel tanks cost, a much better material in the salt belt I live in here. I had no idea plastic could be had for about the same money, I put in a new steel rear in my 94 little more then a year ago, have a feeling I'll regret not checking on it in a couple years. Just don't last long.
My BIL works at Keystone Automotive, so I always just go to him out of habit for rust repair parts........my fault I asked for a stock style steel replacement tank.













