When the truck is sitting turned off, battery has plenty of power to make dome light work, then once i turn the key back or forward for accesories, still has plenty of power. But once i push the clutch in and try to engage the starter, everything dies. I have absolutely no power, then when i turn the key back, the dome light very faintly returns. When I play with the positive terminal, its like out of nowhere it gets a better connection and I have full battery power again. The cable end is rusted some, but the connection side for the battery is clean as a whistle. Could this possibly be a connection problem or bad ground somewhere. Or could it be that my battery actually is starting to lose some juice? Or could it be a voltage regulator issue? Thanks for any help.

 

I would get a new end (or clean up the one you got) on that cable first. Sounds like you are not getting a good connection. check the battery with a volt meter see how much you have.

 

I wouldn't half-*** the electrical. Just replace the entire length of starter cable, batt to starter. While you're down there have a look at the spade connector on the starter, that has been known to cause problems.

Once that's done you can definitely rule it out.

 

Maybe try to tighten your positive cable clamp too.

Does it seem like the cable is a little bit loose ??
Does it do this very often ?? Daily ?? Weekly ??

I had a battery do something like this just recently. I drive my truck daily and I know my battery was always charged fully. But every few mornings, I would go to start my truck and the battery would seem dead. So, I'd wiggle the cable ends on the terminals and the truck would start.

During testing and placing a load on the battery, Autozone traced it back to a poor connection between the battery plates and the positive terminal on top. When the terminal was wiggled just right it lost all power. When they wiggled it again, It made contact and had full power. The battery was junked as a manufacturer defect and replaced.

 

If the clamp is corroded or "rusted" just tightening it up is not a good answer. You need to get a good clean connection.

 

True enough but he did say this above,

Thats why I suggested tightening the clamp if he could.

 

Any form of corrosion on any of the battery connections can cause the problem burninrubber is experiencing. Check and clean all of the connections. You can also check the conductivity of the cables by using a jumper cable to bypass on cable at a time. If the cable developes excessively high resistance it will cause this type of problem also. Hope this helps you. Dan.

 

edit
bypass one cable
my spelling/typing SUCKS.
Dan.

 

Thanks guys, I went ahead and replaced both the positive and negative terminals, and cables, and all seems fine now. Now it seems all my electrical issues are out of the way . Now onto the other issue. When I crank my motor, it seems as if though it wants to start, but for some reason it will kinda start, but it wont run. I'm not sure if its bad gas, bad spark or what it could be. It seems mostly like either its not burning any gas to stay running, or it has no spark. The plugs are rusty and are a definate change when I get payed friday. But it seems the motor only wants to run as long as the starter motor is spinning. Any ideas? I hope i explained this well enough.

 

I would clean the battery terminals and clamps anyway, as I have found they can have a thin coating that doesn't look like oxidation but in fact is, and prevents a good connection.

I know you said you're cranking fine now, but I would then (after cleaning the terminals and clamps) CHARGE THE BATTERY, if it is less than fully charged. I'm told that sometimes, with a weak battery and/or poor starter/ground connections, the starter can take so much juice during cranking that there is insufficient power to the coil, to generate a good spark.

You could also try starting with the charger hooked to the battery, to give it a little more "oopmph" (after the aforementioned cleaning) and see if that makes a difference.

However, UPON FURTHER REFLECTION, this sounds more like a fuel delivery problem:

"it seems as if though it wants to start, but for some reason it will kinda start, but it wont run."

Have you tried switching tanks? Putting gas in the tanks? (The so-called "fuel gauge" is more of a suggestion or reminder, than an accurate measure, in these trucks, IMO.

Can you hear the frame-mounted pump running, when you first turn the key on? It should run for a few seconds, then kick off.

Good luck.

 

do the full tune up including spark plug wires-don't forget to change out the coil to dist.wire-they will react that way-wants to start in start mode release the key and nothing-once ya get it to start does it run kinda crappy till it warms up-and mostly in wet conditions?-and the above post is a good suggestion too-do you hear the pumps running?

 

I agree do a full tune up first. If a plug is rusted you probably arent getting a good spark. let us know if the tune up works

 

Go to a salvage yard and get a gray TFI Module and see if that gets you going. I say salvage yard because I know you are short on cash at 17 and you need a TFI Module that says Motorcraft on it. Go to radio shack and get some thermal compound white grease. Put this grease between the distributor and the module and use a lot of it.

You may need to go to an auto part store and buy a TFI Ignition Module wrench to take it off with.

If this does not do it you might have an Ignition Switch Problem.

Here is a photo of the TFI location.


/

 

Thanks for all the tips guys. When I turn the key over the fuel pump makes no sound. And by the way I only have one tank. But anyway, there is no sound at all from the fuel pump. I dont see any pump along the frame rails, so does that mean its most likely inside the tank? I know for sure the tank has 10 gallons at least, I put that in myself. So does it seem like changing the fuel pump may be the way to go as far as the fuel delivery problem?

 

If you have an 1988 F-150 and do not have a fuel pump on the frame you have a problem.
The frame fuel pump should look like this.


Try reseting your Inertia switch by the clutch pedal.